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Occasionally referred to as "The Eiger of North America", Mt Temple is perhaps the most prominent of the Canadian Rockies, pearched sentinel-like between Banff & Lake Louise, and towering over the picturesque Moraine Lake. Temple's fortuitous location, dramatic appearance, and massive bulk make the peak equally well-known to climbers and tourists. Its magnificent, sprawling North Face, over a mile wide and nearly 5000' high, is one of the few such North Faces visible from paved roads in the entire range. At 11,636', Temple is the highest peak in the Banff Region, but is also one of the highest peaks in the Canadian Rockies, though its real attraction is its near-European accessibility and excellent, engaging routes of all difficulties.
Temple's enduring charms have ensured the peak would play a pivotal role in every significant era of North American mountaineering. Temple earned an early spot in the local annals as the first 11K'-er to be climbed in the range. The American's 1894 ascent of the Southwest Ridge was also notable in that it was completed without guides, which was rare at the time. This route has enjoyed unparalleled popularity to this day.
Mt Temple sits prominently a few miles south of Lake Louise, on the west side of the Icefields Parkway. To approach, follow the popular Moraine Lake road south from Lake Louise Drive towards Moraine Lake. Trails depart from various points along the road depending on the route.
3 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Mt. Temple
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt. Temple:
East Ridge 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Mod. Snow PG13 Snow, Alpine, 10 pitches, 5000'
Featured Route For Mt. Temple
Greenwood-Jones 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b North America : Canada : ... : Mt. Temple
Although probably the easiest and safest route on the north side of Mount Temple, this is still a long and demanding must-do route that requires a swift party to avoid a bivy. Retreat from high on the route would be difficult.The Greenwood-Jones roughly follows a vague buttress that delineates the north and Sphinx faces, with variable rock quality. Primarily a rock climb, the route is best climbed in dry conditions, typically in late July and early August. The first ascensionists graded it 5.8 A...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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