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Mt. Meeker

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Dragon's Egg Couloir Ski Descent 
Flying Buttress, The T 
Main Vein T 

Mt. Meeker 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 13,911'
Location: 40.2486, -105.604 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 67,982
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001
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Mt. Meeker-Fall.
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Mount Meeker is Longs Peak's neighbor to the SE-the second highest peak in Rocky Mountain National Park! Not nearly as well known as Longs, it yet houses a classic alpine rock route, the Flying Buttress, and a classic alpine ice route, the Dream Weaver Couloir. A number of other seldom-traveled routes exist which have an appealing look. The rock varies between granite and schist, excellent in both cases. All of the climbing is on the North Face, which is steep and quite wide. The 3rd-class route to the summit is a peak-bagging classic.


Getting There 

The approach is easy: take the trail from the Longs Peak trailhead as for the east face of Longs (i.e. staying left at all the trail junctions). When just below Chasm Lake (east face of Longs visible directly west), near a ranger cabin and open-air privy, turn SE and scramble up talus and possibly snow to the base of the now obvious North Face. The North Face is partially visible for the last 2 miles of the approach.


3 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt. Meeker:
Dragon's Egg Couloir Ski Descent   Steep Snow R     Snow, Alpine, Grade II   
The Flying Buttress   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   
Main Vein   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches   
Browse More Classics in Mt. Meeker

Featured Route For Mt. Meeker
Mt. Meeker Traverse. <br /> <br />Loft ascent, Dragon's Egg Couloir descent. <br /> <br />Better to bring the rope, harness, and tools to climb Dreamweaver first.

Dragon's Egg Couloir Ski Descent Steep Snow R  CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Mt. Meeker
Meeker is where I go to pretend I'm in Chamonix. The Dragons Egg Couloir is easily seen from Denver, just right of Longs. If it looks phat, then go! Ascending Dreamweaver's ice and then skiing Dragon's Egg Couloir is the way to go. Most ski haulers doing Dreamweaver just ski the Loft, steeper, but only a third the size. Another advantage to Dreamweaver & Dragon's Egg is that both gullies crest at the same place on the summit ridge. Avoiding the ski carry over the summit boulder to reach th...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Mt. Meeker
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News
Jul 9 Access Fund is hiring in Boulder 0
Jun 11 New Women's Speed Record on the Nose   4
Jun 7 A Tribute to Jeff Lowe   4
May 15 MP Mobile App: Partnered with Black Diamond and now Free   4
May 12 New Feature: Improve This Page   3
May 1 New Yosemite Bigwall Printed Guide Book Now Available 0

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Photos of Mt. Meeker Slideshow Add Photo
BETA PHOTO
Mt Meeker's most popular feature, The Flying Buttress. One of the best alpine rock ascents in the park at any grade. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2000.
Mt Meeker's most popular feature, The Flying Buttr...
View of The Loft from the approach to Meeker.  Taken 10/3/04.
BETA PHOTO: View of The Loft from the approach to Meeker. Tak...
Mount Meeker. Rocky Mountain National Park.
BETA PHOTO: Mount Meeker. Rocky Mountain National Park.
BETA PHOTO
I have always wondered how many more good routes would go in the Meeker cirque.  Views to the left of the Flying Buttress inspire the imagination to think that there could be many many more. Photo by Tony Bubb, Y2K.
I have always wondered how many more good routes w...
Comments on Mt. Meeker Add Comment
Show which comments
By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Oct 26, 2001

Great Climb! We did the 10c start which was beautiful and tough. Use the excellent friction to your advantage.

The 5.9+ crack through the roof on the 3rd pitch that Charles mentions is great and probably doesn't need the "+". It looks improbable, but the holds through the roof are great and they continue above the lip. It was interesting getting my body horizontal under the roof while wearing a pack. The only point of caution here is that the block you haul on at the lip doesn't have any visible means of support, yet it felt solid.

By Jimmy Farrell
From: Lexington, KY
Jul 24, 2005

I climbed The Flying Buttress Direct on Tuesday, 7/19/05 (Great Climb!). On the 4th class approach right below the start of the climb, I found a climbing shoe. It was a right shoe, size 40.5, La Sportiva Miura. Let me know if you are missing it... (reachjim_at_hotmail)