Mt. Meeker-Fall. Photo by Blitzo.
Mount Meeker is Longs Peak's neighbor to the SE-the second highest peak in Rocky Mountain National Park! Not nearly as well known as Longs, it yet houses a classic alpine rock route, the Flying Buttress, and a classic alpine ice route, the Dream Weaver Couloir. A number of other seldom-traveled routes exist which have an appealing look. The rock varies between granite and schist, excellent in both cases. All of the climbing is on the North Face, which is steep and quite wide. The 3rd-class route to the summit is a peak-bagging classic.
The approach is easy: take the trail from the Longs Peak trailhead as for the east face of Longs (i.e. staying left at all the trail junctions). When just below Chasm Lake (east face of Longs visible directly west), near a ranger cabin and open-air privy, turn SE and scramble up talus and possibly snow to the base of the now obvious North Face. The North Face is partially visible for the last 2 miles of the approach.
Weather station 5.0 miles from here
3 Total Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Mt. Meeker
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt. Meeker:
Main Vein 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches
Featured Route For Mt. Meeker
Dragon's Egg Couloir Ski Descent
Steep Snow R CO
: Alpine Rock
: ... : Mt. Meeker
Meeker is where I go to pretend I'm in Chamonix. The Dragons Egg Couloir is easily seen from Denver, just right of Longs. If it looks phat, then go! Ascending Dreamweaver's ice and then skiing Dragon's Egg Couloir is the way to go. Most ski haulers doing Dreamweaver just ski the Loft, steeper, but only a third the size. Another advantage to Dreamweaver & Dragon's Egg is that both gullies crest at the same place on the summit ridge. Avoiding the ski carry over the summit boulder to reach th...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Local Information for Mt. Meeker
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Mt Meeker's most popular feature, The Flying Buttr...
BETA PHOTO: View of The Loft from the approach to Meeker. Tak...
BETA PHOTO: Mount Meeker. Rocky Mountain National Park.
I have always wondered how many more good routes w...
By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Oct 26, 2001
Great Climb! We did the 10c start which was beautiful and tough. Use the excellent friction to your advantage.
The 5.9+ crack through the roof on the 3rd pitch that Charles mentions is great and probably doesn't need the "+". It looks improbable, but the holds through the roof are great and they continue above the lip. It was interesting getting my body horizontal under the roof while wearing a pack. The only point of caution here is that the block you haul on at the lip doesn't have any visible means of support, yet it felt solid.
By Jimmy Farrell
From: Lexington, KY
Jul 24, 2005
I climbed The Flying Buttress Direct on Tuesday, 7/19/05 (Great Climb!). On the 4th class approach right below the start of the climb, I found a climbing shoe. It was a right shoe, size 40.5, La Sportiva Miura. Let me know if you are missing it... (reachjim_at_hotmail)