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Mt. Meeker

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Dragon's Egg Couloir Ski Descent 
Flying Buttress, The T 
Main Vein T 

Mt. Meeker 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 13,911'
Location: 40.2486, -105.604 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 69,204
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jan 1, 2001
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Mt. Meeker-Fall.
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Mount Meeker is Longs Peak's neighbor to the SE-the second highest peak in Rocky Mountain National Park! Not nearly as well known as Longs, it yet houses a classic alpine rock route, the Flying Buttress, and a classic alpine ice route, the Dream Weaver Couloir. A number of other seldom-traveled routes exist which have an appealing look. The rock varies between granite and schist, excellent in both cases. All of the climbing is on the North Face, which is steep and quite wide. The 3rd-class route to the summit is a peak-bagging classic.


Getting There 

The approach is easy: take the trail from the Longs Peak trailhead as for the east face of Longs (i.e. staying left at all the trail junctions). When just below Chasm Lake (east face of Longs visible directly west), near a ranger cabin and open-air privy, turn SE and scramble up talus and possibly snow to the base of the now obvious North Face. The North Face is partially visible for the last 2 miles of the approach.


Climbing Season


3 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt. Meeker:
Dragon's Egg Couloir Ski Descent   Steep Snow R     Snow, Alpine, Grade II   
The Flying Buttress   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   
Main Vein   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches   
Browse More Classics in Mt. Meeker

Featured Route For Mt. Meeker
Main Vein  5.11

Main Vein 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Mt. Meeker
OK, I'll come right out and say that I haven't climbed the entire route. Even if I had been feeling 100%, we would have bailed anyway because a marmot was stealing/eating my partners hiking shoes and socks. That hike out would have been quite painful in climbing shoes...This route is located well to the left of the Flying Buttress on an impressive concave wall that faces the Diamond. It's orientation means that it is shaded until early afternoon. We were there in the morning in the early sea...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Mt. Meeker
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News
Aug 18 New Feature: Season Charts   2
Aug 15 Wayne Crill's Fundraiser 0
Jul 9 Access Fund is hiring in Boulder 0
Jun 11 New Women's Speed Record on the Nose   6
Jun 7 A Tribute to Jeff Lowe   4
May 15 MP Mobile App: Partnered with Black Diamond and now Free   4

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Upcoming Events
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Photos of Mt. Meeker Slideshow Add Photo
BETA PHOTO
Mt Meeker's most popular feature, The Flying Buttress. One of the best alpine rock ascents in the park at any grade. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2000.
Mt Meeker's most popular feature, The Flying Buttr...
View of The Loft from the approach to Meeker.  Taken 10/3/04.
BETA PHOTO: View of The Loft from the approach to Meeker. Tak...
Mount Meeker. Rocky Mountain National Park.
BETA PHOTO: Mount Meeker. Rocky Mountain National Park.
BETA PHOTO
I have always wondered how many more good routes would go in the Meeker cirque.  Views to the left of the Flying Buttress inspire the imagination to think that there could be many many more. Photo by Tony Bubb, Y2K.
I have always wondered how many more good routes w...
Comments on Mt. Meeker Add Comment
Show which comments
By Peter Spindloe
From: North Vancouver, BC
Oct 26, 2001

Great Climb! We did the 10c start which was beautiful and tough. Use the excellent friction to your advantage.

The 5.9+ crack through the roof on the 3rd pitch that Charles mentions is great and probably doesn't need the "+". It looks improbable, but the holds through the roof are great and they continue above the lip. It was interesting getting my body horizontal under the roof while wearing a pack. The only point of caution here is that the block you haul on at the lip doesn't have any visible means of support, yet it felt solid.

By Jimmy Farrell
From: Lexington, KY
Jul 24, 2005

I climbed The Flying Buttress Direct on Tuesday, 7/19/05 (Great Climb!). On the 4th class approach right below the start of the climb, I found a climbing shoe. It was a right shoe, size 40.5, La Sportiva Miura. Let me know if you are missing it... (reachjim_at_hotmail)