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Mt. McKinley

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Cassin Ridge 
Messner Couloir 
Muldrow Glacier 
South Buttress_Wyoming Rib Variation T 
West Buttress 
West Rib, The 

Mt. McKinley 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 20,320'
Location: 63.0724, -150.9467 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 187,445
Administrators: Jared LaVacque, Dommelhiemer, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: R Squared on Apr 29, 2007
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The view S from the summit
Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!

Description 

The tallest mountain in North America, Denali stands tall at 20,320 feet. It host a number of routes the most popular being the West Buttress and it is also home to the great Alaskan testpiece the Cassin Ridge. Weather can change on Denali in the blink of an eye so come prepared for everything.


Getting There 

You can fly to Mt. McKinley with a number of aviation services or make the long hike from Talkeetna


Climbing Season


6 Total Routes


['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt. McKinley:
The West Rib   Steep Snow     Snow, Alpine, 9200'   
West Buttress   Mod. Snow     Snow, Alpine, 12500'   
Cassin Ridge   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WI4     Ice, Alpine, Grade V   
Browse More Classics in Mt. McKinley

Featured Route For Mt. McKinley
Upper South Buttress showing from about 16,000 feet el to 18,900 feet. Alternative couloir to the original route is located in lower left of photo in the sun/shade line

South Buttress_Wyoming Rib Variation AI3-4 M3 Steep Snow PG13  AK : Denali National Park : Mt. McKinley
The Wyoming Rib Variation is the convex snowy ridge south of the Japanese Ramp which starts around 13,000 feet elevation on the East Fork-Kahilta Glacier. Route finding is involved in the lower section and likely varies from season to season. The FA crux was a 1/2 pitch of 70 degree snow / ice mix. The Rib tops out on the main South Buttress Ridge at about 15,500 then traverses that for about 1 mile and over a high point at 15,885 el. to join the top of the Japanese Ramp.1-2 days of recon on the...[more]   Browse More Classics in AK

Photos of Mt. McKinley Slideshow Add Photo
The Coxcomb.
The Coxcomb.
The north side of Denali from near Wonder Lake.
The north side of Denali from near Wonder Lake.
Denali from near Wonder Lake.
Denali from near Wonder Lake.
View of the SW side of the peak from the West Buttress/Cassin/West Rib Advanced Base Camp at 7,800 ft on the Kahiltna Glacier, at the mouth of the NE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier (aka The Valley of Death - "VOD").  Prominent in the photo are the West Buttress(left skyline), the West Rim (Center, in the VOD) & the West Rib (sunlit ridge on the R in the VOD)  Note the numberous gaping crevasses in the mouth of the VOD.  You have to run this gauntlet in order to approach the West Rim, the West Rib and the Cassin Ridge via the VOD.
BETA PHOTO: View of the SW side of the peak from the West Butt...
...As seen from Pk. 6000 on the Ruth...
...As seen from Pk. 6000 on the Ruth...
Denali from above Eielson Visitor Center.
Denali from above Eielson Visitor Center.
The list of the folks who have died in Denali National Park, at the Climber's Memorial in the Talkeetna Cemetery.  It's heavily weighted toward fatalities on Denali.  You don't want to get your name on this list.
The list of the folks who have died in Denali Nati...
Denali's south side, from the Base Camp airstrip on the SE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier, 7,200 ft.  Typically windy conditions aloft - notice the giant lenticular cloud that obscures the top of the mountain.  Be prepared for really tough weather on this peak.
Denali's south side, from the Base Camp airstrip o...
The Wickersham Wall, Denali
The Wickersham Wall, Denali
Base camp
Base camp
Midnight over Denali...looking up the Muldrow
Midnight over Denali...looking up the Muldrow
Denali as seen from Mt Hunter.  The sun/shade line in the center is the Cassin Ridge
BETA PHOTO: Denali as seen from Mt Hunter. The sun/shade line...
Windy Corner
Windy Corner
Looking down the Kahiltna towards ski hill and the start of the west Buttress
BETA PHOTO: Looking down the Kahiltna towards ski hill and the...
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