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Mt Hood advice
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By Michael J Thomas
Nov 16, 2012

Hey everyone,
I will be moving to Oregon in a few week and already have Mt Hood in my to-do list....Im a moderate climber and have hiked many 12-14+ summer peaks, some pretty technical, but none with a whole lot of snow...what are recommendations for winter climbing on Mt Hood?...
Thanks Michael


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By Brian Scoggins
From Eugene, OR
Nov 16, 2012

Start with summer climbing.

Hood is both the most attempted glaciated peak in the US, and also the glaciated peak most likely to kill people.

Just because its "only" 11,000 feet does not make it easy, nor something to turn your nose up at. Find some good couloirs that stay in shape through the summer, and do those. Then take an avy course that deals specifically with the sort of snow conditions endemic to the pacific northwest. Then (and only then) start thinking about winter climbing on Hood.


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By Dave Schultz
From Everett, Washington
Nov 16, 2012
Trap Dike

Mike, I am up in northern Washington, but might be willing to head down to Mt Hood for some climbing. Is there a particular route you were interested in? Any technical rock climbing experiance, if so, how much? Any avi or crevase rescue training, formal or informal? Also, do you know if Hood has enough snow to ski any of the routes, like the Leuthold Couloir?

Dave


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By Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Nov 17, 2012
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination Rock

Dave- Just remembered your email... I'll get back to you here in a minute.

OP- Hood is in prime condition in the winter, despite what a lot of guys seem to want to tell you. I've climbed it about 20-25 times, in ALL conditions, but mostly in the winter. Snow can be deep and unstable, so it's definitely wise to have some avy awareness, but people almost never die in avys on that mountain. Falls and exposure are the killers, there.. So watch and wait for a solid high-pressure system, check the avy report on www.nwac.us/ and proceed up a route of your choice.

The Pearly Gates have recently been a very good introductory technical climb- it's a long slog till about 10,500', then turns to steep snow/ice leading to a short 70 degree ice step for about 15', continuing up steep snow/ice for another 30-50', and then mellowing back out to the summit. No route-finding problems, very straight forward.

The Old and Mazama Chutes are currently the most popular routes, and googling those routes will give you plenty of info on them. You can also just follow the hoards on any clear weekend.

Leutholds is another good introductory steep-snow route, with sustained 45 degree slopes, topping out on the western rim of the crater. Route-finding can be a problem, especially in poor visibility.

Cooper Spur is a more exposed 45-50 degree snow climb up the NE side of the mountain- also very straight forward route-finding. If conditions are right, you can even get some intro-level mixed climbing in if you stay left and head up through a section called the Chimney. Long approach, this time of year- starts 5 miles back and 2,000' lower than the south approach.

Good luck


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By Brian Scoggins
From Eugene, OR
Nov 18, 2012

My point wasn't that Hood *wasn't* a good winter peak. It may be one of the better peaks for a first winter climb. I'm just saying that there are tons of summer couloirs out there, and if you've never climbed snow before, its probably better to develop that skill without factoring in the nuances of winter climbing as well.


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By Reginald McChufferton
Nov 18, 2012

Brian, don't argue with Benbie. He's a Mt. Hood professional. He's been climbing for AT LEAST 2 years and has barely climbed anything else in the PNW besides Hood so he know's all there is to know about that mountain. And all of climbing in general actually. He even SOLO'S shit. Bow down before him and his mad skills.


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By Max Tepfer
From Bend, OR
Nov 18, 2012

So, there I was, bored at work, browsing the latest posts and I saw this thread. I also saw the R.McC. had the most recent post.
"Hmmm. Given that it's a new climber asking for advice, I'd bet anything that his response is more of the same jerk-drivel that contributes nothing to the site besides encouraging over moderation. (The mods wouldn't have to enforce rule #1 if we didn't break it). Sure enough, the thesis of his reply is talking smack about another poster who gave the OP some decent advice. Is Ben B Steve House? Of course not. That doesn't mean he's unqualified to share his experience on a mountain that he clearly loves to climb.
Please refrain from being such a jackass. You ruin it for the rest of us.


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By Reginald McChufferton
Nov 18, 2012

Glad to see you've got enough time on your hands these days to put on your super hero cape and defend the down trodden and harassed on MP. Of course I'm completely free to ignore you and tell you to mind your own damn business. Whine to someone who gives a shit. Personally I'm just as tired of reading about Benbie's gumby adventures and noob advice that he spray's on every climing web site out there as if he's the greatest thing that's ever happened to climbing.


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By Ben Beckerich
From saint helens, oregon
Nov 18, 2012
About half way up the East Arete on Illumination Rock

Reginald McChufferton wrote:
Personally I'm just as tired of reading about Benbie's gumby adventures and noob advice that he spray's on every climing web site out there as if he's the greatest thing that's ever happened to climbing.


Tired of my once-every-3-months post?

No, Leeroy/Yarp/MyBlackHound/Reggie/Reginald... the problem is a lot deeper than your obsession with me. You lie about your names, you lie about your gender when someone calls you out, you viciously trash-talk anyone you think is new for no better reason than they're new... Who knows what the fuck is wrong with you, but it's not me.

It's definitely time to change user names again. Try a smidgen of subtly, next time.


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By NickinCO
From colorado
Nov 19, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.

this guy is almost as bad as Eleanor...


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By Reginald McChufferton
Nov 19, 2012

NickinCO wrote:
this guy is almost as bad as Eleanor...


Almost


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By Dave Schultz
From Everett, Washington
Nov 19, 2012
Trap Dike

What happened to this thread?


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By Healyje
Dec 14, 2012
girl40

Dave Schultz wrote:
What happened to this thread?


Worse things could happen to a Mt. Hood thread...


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