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Mt. Hedgehog - East Ledges Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Mt. Hedgehog - East Ledges

L › R R › L A › Z

	"Out of the Wilderness" (on Bottom Slab) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	"The White Face" (on Bottom Slab) T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
	18 Holes T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	A.M.C. Route (on bottom cliff) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Catch 22 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Dag-Nabit T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	PB&J T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Ringwraith T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13

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Elevation:	2,318 ft
GPS:	43.97316, -71.36174 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	8,485 total · 61/month
Shared By:	bradley white on Nov 11, 2012
Admins:	Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

One of the first ledges to be climbed in the forest by the A.M.C in 1928. The ledge faces the contours of Mt Passaconway and has some view further east. The rock is granite like. Left to center facing the cliff at the base are cracks to climb higher up. These are made from very big blocks leaning next to each other. Further up second pitch at trees, above are two separate groove cracks that go a long distance to the top. There used to be anchors at the top to top rope these. The central to right side, I have not done enough to describe it well. The route I did, we encountered short annoying pine to get way from and haphazard blocks to cross over as we diagonally came up the right side and were forced by pine to go left. The work had no merit but this side has several climbs up it now. Some are reached by rappel. I assumed the cracks above the base on the left side are some of the older routes. My friend put up a hammock at the base below the cracked wall starts.

Climbs are listed "Climber's" LEFT to RIGHT, i.e. as a climber would see them from the mid-height tree ledge or the bottom of the cliff.

On a nice summer's day, expect a reasonable amount of hiker traffic over the tops of the slabs as the views are excellent, and the hike is a moderate one. The rock slabs are quite solid and accidental rockfall is not particularly a problem, but climbers below should always take precautions.

Getting There

On the western side of the Kancamagus Highway, park at the Mt. Hedgehog hiking trail fee parking area. Hike about two miles on the UNH Mt. Hedgehog trail left branch to the summit of the East ledges. This is the "summit" ledge with the largest open view. The first ledges you come to is where climbers have rappelled to climb. Between the main ledge and the last ledge, on the trail, before it ascends to the summit, is a forested sloped opening. This is the way to bushwhack down to the base of the main cliff. The last ledge is a short rappel into cliff, if the anchors are strong,then trees for rappel to the ground.

Most climbers rap the main cliff. There is a 3/8-inch Stainless Bolt (easily backed up with a can or large nut) at the far end of the slab, near where Ringwraith ends, and just before where the hiking trail re-enters the woods. [photo in Ringwraith] 130-140 ft (2 rope) rap to a tree ledge with a double bolt anchor. Most climbs start from this tree ledge. If going to the bottom, do another 2 rope rap off the chain. 2 x 60m ( 200 ft) are needed to get all the way to the ground at the bottom, although a 50m (165 ft) will get you to a ledge about 20-25 ft up.