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Mt. Evans Bouldering

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Area A 
Gateway Boulder 
Laying In Wait Boulder 
Lincoln Lake 

Mt. Evans Bouldering 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 11,000'
Location: 39.6598, -105.6049 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 136,906
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Jul 24, 2009
Forecast:
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Trail blazer at Mt. Evans.
The majority of these boulders are located within the Mt Evans Wilderness Area, which is regulated & patrolled by the US Forest Service. Climber MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Mt Evans areas are quickly gaining recognition as some of the best bouldering in the country. Numerous world-class blocks litter the sprawling slopes of Colorado’s most accessible 14-er, and if not for a grueling, ‘never-again’ approach, this would be one of the most popular boulder fields in Colorado. The rock is stellar, highly featured granite, with excellent, rough texture, numerous incut edges, and the odd Tuolumne-esque knob.

Though the quality of the climbing is undeniable, there are numerous drawbacks. The approach is truly heinous for the most accessible boulders, and gets worse for the more remote areas. All of the blocks are situated over 10’000 feet (some higher), which makes the climbing season tragically short. Even during the peak summer season, days are often cut short by sudden thunderstorms, high winds, and snowfall. The sun is intense and the air is thin. Any injury is potentially serious as help is far away and retreat is long & involved. Mosquitoes and other pests are ubiquitous.

There are numerous distinct bouldering areas scattered across the slopes of the mountain, with the most popular being those along the Chicago Lakes Basin, a beautiful glacial valley northeast of the summit. Creatively named Area A, Area B, Area C & Area D, these areas are the most accessible and offer the bulk of the developed boulders. Most of the well-known problems, such as the Dali, Gorillas in the Mist, All Dogs Go to Evans, and Timeline, are found in Areas A & B. Excellent problems can also be found at Lincoln Lake, which is south of the paved highway CO-5.

The vast majority of the boulders are located within the Mount Evans Wilderness Area. Please read the access bulletin and abide by the instructions. This is an alpine environment! Inclement weather moves in fast, and approaching storm systems are often hidden behind the mountain until they are right on top of you. Be prepared for any conditions, to include snow & lightning. Dehydration occurs more quickly at higher altitudes; bring twice as much water as you think you’ll need.


Getting There 

Mt Evans is located ~30 miles west of downtown Denver. Take I-70 to the town of Idaho Springs, then follow CO-103 towards Mt Evans. For Areas A – C, park at the Echo Lake Picnic area, just west of mile marker 13. For Area D, follow the summit road (CO-5, $10/vehicle entrance fee may apply)to Summit Lake.


102 Total Routes


['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',40],['2 Stars',33],['1 Star',19],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',4],['V2-3',27],['V4-5',16],['V6-7',24],['V8-9',15],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',14],['>=V14',2]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt. Evans Bouldering:
Timeline   V0+ 4+ R     Boulder, Alpine, 25'   Area A : Bierstadt Area
Last of the Ohitians   V1 5     Boulder, Alpine, 15'   Area A : Bierstadt Area
The Ladder   V2 5+     Boulder, Alpine, 1 pitch, 10'   Area A : Bierstadt Area
Canvas   V2 5+ R     Boulder, Alpine, 30'   Area A : Bierstadt Area
Puddle Jumper   V2 5+     Boulder, Alpine   Area A : The Dali Area
Dark Crystal   V3 6A     Boulder, Alpine, 16'   Area A : Bierstadt Area
Ben's Arete   V5 6C     Boulder, Alpine, 16'   Area A : Bierstadt Area
Maker's Mark   V5 6C PG13     Boulder, Alpine, 15'   Area A : Bierstadt Area
Cherry Top Rip (Name Unknown)   V5 6C     Boulder, Alpine, 10'   Area A : Seurat Area
Downtrail Face   V6 7A     Boulder, Alpine, 14'   Gateway Boulder
The Dali Stand Start   V6 7A     Boulder, Alpine, 10'   Area A : The Dali Area
Peasants Into Leaders   V7 7A+ R     Boulder, Alpine, 30'   Area A : Bierstadt Area
Pink Fink   V7 7A+ PG13     Boulder, Alpine, 15'   Area A : Bierstadt Area
Seurat   V8 7B     Boulder, Alpine   Area A : Seurat Area
The Dali Sit Down Start   V9 7C     Boulder, Alpine, 15'   Area A : The Dali Area
Bierstadt   V9 7C     Boulder, Alpine, 14'   Area A : Bierstadt Area
All Dogs Go To Evans   V10 7C+ PG13     Boulder, Alpine, 16'   Area A : Seurat Area
Mirror Mask   V10-11 8A     Boulder, Alpine, 15'   Area A : The Dali Area
No More Greener Grasses   V12 8A+     Boulder, Alpine   Area A : The Dali Area
Big Worm   V14 8B+     Boulder, Alpine, 15'   Area A : The Dali Area
Browse More Classics in Mt. Evans Bouldering

Featured Route For Mt. Evans Bouldering
Scott Neel getting started on Downtrail Face, Trailside Boulder, Mount Evans Wilderness Area.

Downtrail Face V6 7A  CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Gateway Boulder
Begin from a sit start using crimps on top of the lowest shield of rock. Start by smacking a LH sloper, then trend up and right across poor crimps and make a big move to a corner jug just shy of the top and pull over. This is an obvious, independent and fun core-tension problem with poor feet until you've snagged the high jug. Note that in hot or humid conditions, it will feel harder as the start is fairly polished and lacks some of the friction found on most Evans problems. Sequential, fun and ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Mt. Evans Bouldering
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News
Jul 9 Access Fund is hiring in Boulder 0
Jun 11 New Women's Speed Record on the Nose   4
Jun 7 A Tribute to Jeff Lowe   4
May 15 MP Mobile App: Partnered with Black Diamond and now Free   4
May 12 New Feature: Improve This Page   3
May 1 New Yosemite Bigwall Printed Guide Book Now Available 0

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Photos of Mt. Evans Bouldering Slideshow Add Photo
Help preserve the excellent bouldering in this beautiful alpine setting.  Please read & obey the regulations in the access note!
Help preserve the excellent bouldering in this bea...
The "Trailside Boulder".  The fork for Area A is 5 minutes beyond this boulder.
BETA PHOTO: The "Trailside Boulder". The fork for Area A is 5...
Amazing rock!!!
Amazing rock!!!
Turn off of the Chicago Lakes Trail here to access the Area A boulders.
BETA PHOTO: Turn off of the Chicago Lakes Trail here to access...
Chicago Basin's boulder pack moraine.
Chicago Basin's boulder pack moraine.
Gorillas In the Mist is a well known V11-ish problem in Area B.
Gorillas In the Mist is a well known V11-ish probl...
Who knows this problem? <br />It's in Area A, close to Pink Fink, V6. <br />Should be in the V8-9 range.
BETA PHOTO: Who knows this problem?
It's in Area A, close to P...
Hiking down to the upper area of Chicago Basin from Summit Lake.
Hiking down to the upper area of Chicago Basin fro...
The view becomes distracting... so do the fearless marmots!
The view becomes distracting... so do the fearless...
Comments on Mt. Evans Bouldering Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 11, 2013
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Jul 24, 2009

Great work on writing up these boulders!

By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Aug 5, 2009

I'm shocked! I thought everyone and their mom was against letting information leak in this area. That's why I never put it up. People seemed to be vexed even when you mentioned the area a few years ago when it was first blowing up in popularity. We should tell everyone about areas B, C, D, the Arials, and Lincolin park too while we're at it maybe then we can stash enough pads to get Mt. Evans closed to climbing all together! I was personally asked to keep my mouth shut about the area a few years ago, by people associated with the NFS.

Don't get me wrong, I love documenting areas and making great finds accessable to other people. I'm just really surprised I guess, considering I stopped going to the area when all the commotion was going on just to try to prevent it from getting restricted or shut down. I've not been back in over 2 years and I live less then 1/2 an hour away! Now everyone and their mother will be there impacting it....

Thoughts? Have things changed that much in a few years?

BTW Timeline is classic for the grade IMO get on it!

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Aug 5, 2009

I think the consensus has changed towards providing accurate helpful information, especially after the Horan guide was published. I agree that the impact was substantial enough with just word of mouth, but I don't see the traffic really getting much worse with MP's info being added. Both Evans and RMNP (which I wrote up) are now pretty much out of fashion at this point, and I am fairly sure that nobody approves of pad stashing anywhere anymore. I think now it's better to have accurate descriptions of boulders and ample explanations of acceptable and unacceptable user practices provided along with that.

By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
Aug 6, 2009

I've got no problems with putting it up as stated before, I was just surprised at the change in attitude I guess since I hadn't been back in so long as I figured it was already getting over run.

By Helldorado
From: Boulder, CO
May 27, 2010

Went here last summer, hoping for a quiet day of bouldering in a nice setting. I was greeted by several dogs and big, loud "elite" crews that didn't seem to mind painting huge tick marks, shouting beta, and throwing cigarette butts on the ground. Is an area "pristine" if everyone and their brother knows about it? I think not.

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
May 28, 2010

Boulderers' conduct off the boulders will become an increasingly important issue for land managers, that's for sure. I agree it is hard to call people out on their conduct since nobody wants to be accused of being a dick. But it's definitely coming to that. There are respectful ways to boulder and disrespectful ways, and I hope a consensus is emerging, just like with pad stashing, that certain kinds of conduct are just not acceptable anymore. Dogs, noise, trash, excessive chalk use, and crowds are just a few of these habits. Being a "good" boulderer justifies nothing that disrespects the environment, the rock, or the people around you.

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Jun 9, 2011

Found a chalk bucket today at Mount Evans Area A. ID it and likely location, and I will get it to you.

By Fred Knapp
Jul 12, 2011

Jamie Emerson's new bouldering guide to RMNP and Mt.Evans is at the printer. We are air freighting some advance copies for pre-purchases. If you order now, you can get a free printable eBook and get an early copy in about three weeks. Supplies will be limited. The bulk shipment will follow by a few weeks. www.sharpendbooks.com

By Joe Collins
Jun 1, 2012

Anyone been up to Area A yet this season? Relatively clear of snow?

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Jun 1, 2012

Joe, the snow is not a problem but the trail is kind of a pain owing to blown down trees. It's not a big deal. Area A is going to be too hot soon though.

By Not So Famous Old Dude
From: Denver, CO
Aug 3, 2012

Please consider not using chalk on the boulders that are near the trail or lakes. Other wilderness users may find the chalk marks distasteful, which can lead to complaints and regulations on climbers. Despite getting a good amount of traffic, the Chicago Lakes area still has a sense of pristine, alpine beauty. And yes, I'm a climber and boulderer, but I don't like to see these boulders chalked. Most climbers wouldn't want to see a hiker spray paint his name on a boulder, so perhaps boulderers might consider whether chalking the boulders is similarly offensive.

By SusanO
Jun 11, 2013

Went Bouldering in the Beirstadt area (area A) this past Sunday 6/9/13 and lost a royal blue, Patagonia, light weight, puffy jacket. Either someone walked off with it by mistake or it was stolen (lame) from a velcro pocket in my crash pad that was at the warm-up problem "The Ladder". Please respond if you have any info. There is no way it fell out of my pad as it was in a velcro pouch, and there was someone walking behind me the whole way out. Thanks!