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Mt. Edith Cavell is one of the most photogenic peaks in Canada. You can see it from Jasper on a clear day, and when I was a teenager I remember every store in Jasper seemed to boast a gorgeous photo or placemat of this peak. I climbed the peak in 2003, and afterwards wanted to buy a nice poster of the peak. Scouring Jasper I was disappointed to not find a single decent photo of this peak! It seems its popularity has declined, or perhaps my memory of how great the photos used to be is poor. In 2003 the tourist shops were chock full of photos and placemats with views from lake Louise and around Banff!
This peak is close to Jasper, follow the paved Mt. Edith Cavell Road to a parking lot at 5800 feet. Here the peak soars over 5000 above you. A nice short hike leads from here to Cavell Meadows, with spectacular views of the North Face.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt. Edith Cavell:
East Ridge 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine, 5000'
North Face - Chouinard/Beckey/Doody 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine, 12 pitches, 5000'
Featured Route For Mt. Edith Cavell
North Face - Chouinard/Beckey/Doody 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Mod. Snow North America : Canada : ... : Mt. Edith Cavell
This face looks scary from the parking lot so don't linger looking at it. Doing the climb in a day is a long day but I'd recommend this. If you take bivy gear it will slow you down and it is best to spend as little time as possible on the lower part of this face as it is very exposed to rockfall.Getting to the Angel Glacier is non-trivial and we checked it out the day before. From the parking lot, cross the stream and head up an obvious moraine that heads toward the cliff right of (and below) th...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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