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Mt. Edith Cavell

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East Ridge T 
North Face - Chouinard/Beckey/Doody T 
West Ridge T 

Mt. Edith Cavell  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 11,034'
Location: 52.6686, -118.0387 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 35,394
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: George Bell on Apr 5, 2007
Forecast:
Fri Sat Sun Mon Tue
Mostly Cloudy
36° | 14°
Mostly Cloudy
19° | 16°
Snow Showers
22° | 17°
Partly Cloudy
19° | 14°
Snow Showers
19° | 11°
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Description 

Mt. Edith Cavell is one of the most photogenic peaks in Canada. You can see it from Jasper on a clear day, and when I was a teenager I remember every store in Jasper seemed to boast a gorgeous photo or placemat of this peak. I climbed the peak in 2003, and afterwards wanted to buy a nice poster of the peak. Scouring Jasper I was disappointed to not find a single decent photo of this peak! It seems its popularity has declined, or perhaps my memory of how great the photos used to be is poor. In 2003 the tourist shops were chock full of photos and placemats with views from lake Louise and around Banff!

The mountain was named in 1916 for an English nurse executed by the Germans during World War I for helping people held captive to escape.

Among climbers, this peak is famous for its East Ridge, a classic moderate route with fantastic views, and its Nordwand which was conquered by Chouinard, Becky and Doody in 1961. There are now quite a few routes up the North Face, and many argue that the original is not the best.

Getting There 

This peak is close to Jasper, follow the paved Mt. Edith Cavell Road to a parking lot at 5800 feet. Here the peak soars over 5000 above you. A nice short hike leads from here to Cavell Meadows, with spectacular views of the North Face.

Climbing Season



Weather station 14.9 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mt. Edith Cavell:
East Ridge   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Mod. Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, 5000'   
North Face - Chouinard/Beckey/Doody   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Mod. Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, 12 pitches, 5000'   
Browse More Classics in Mt. Edith Cavell

Featured Route For Mt. Edith Cavell
The North Face in profile from the descent (compos...

North Face - Chouinard/Beckey/Doody 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Mod. Snow  North America : Canada : ... : Mt. Edith Cavell
This face looks scary from the parking lot so don't linger looking at it. Doing the climb in a day is a long day but I'd recommend this. If you take bivy gear it will slow you down and it is best to spend as little time as possible on the lower part of this face as it is very exposed to rockfall.Getting to the Angel Glacier is non-trivial and we checked it out the day before. From the parking lot, cross the stream and head up an obvious moraine that heads toward the cliff right of (and below) th...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Mt. Edith Cavell Slideshow Add Photo
View down the West Ridge, Aug 17, 2011
View down the West Ridge, Aug 17, 2011
Mount Edith Cavell contour interval:  500 feet Nor...
BETA PHOTO: Mount Edith Cavell contour interval: 500 feet Nor...
Same photo cropped differently.
Same photo cropped differently.
Chris McRaild on the summit of Edith Cavell on a v...
Chris McRaild on the summit of Edith Cavell on a v...
Descending the West Ridge, Aug 17, 2011
Descending the West Ridge, Aug 17, 2011
just like you are lookin at it
just like you are lookin at it
Mt Edith Cavell
Mt Edith Cavell

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