Mt. Chaktar Rock Climbing
Mt. Chaktar lies a few peaks NW of The Sheepshead
. For a photographic visual from the west, go to this Photo
and locate The Sheepshead
. The first peak left of The Sheepshead
is The Muttonhead
. Left of The Muttonhead
lies Hootgoat Mtn with Mallethead immediately underneath that. And left of Hootgoat Mtn is Mt. Chaktar.
In short, viewing from the west, Mt. Chaktar is the 3rd peak on the skyline to the left of The Sheepshead
. Bob Kerry's topo
of the four peaks/domes may be helpful.
Follow the approach to The Muttonhead
where the currently discernable trail ends (2009). Drop down maybe 40 feet and traverse beneath Mallethead. Once past Mallethead, head up perhaps 50 feet to a saddle. Traverse down into the next gully which lies between Mallethead and Mt. Chaktar; this is the descent gully from some climbs on Chaktar so perhaps drop gear not needed on the climb. Traverse / bushwhack left along the base of Mt. Chaktar to reach the desired climb.
Scramble toward the back corner of Mt. Chaktar that is closest to Hootgoat Mtn. Find a large tree (~1 foot diameter) with slings. We did one rap on a single 60 meter rope, trending towards the notch at the top of the descent gully between Mt. Chaktar and Hootgoat Mtn. Midway on the rap, we climbed out of a slot towards the notch and then continued the rap down a crack to a large flat boulder / platform.
From the large flat platform, we scrambled toward the notch until at an impasse quite close to the descent gully. From the impasse, go right (~SW) up to a ~6 inch diameter pine tree which has three main branches. Make improbable boulder moves to the top just above the tree. Then follow 3rd class down towards another tree ~20 meters below. As one approaches this second tree, take the rightward ramp now in view which heads to obvious scrambling to the gulley at a point well below the notch.
There is an abundance of slings elsewhere as testimony to folks doing a second rap to get to the gulley. Ours may not be the only way or the best way to avoid a second rap.
Weather station 5.1 miles from here
2 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Mt. Chaktar
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mt. Chaktar:
Featured Route For Mt. Chaktar
Ghosts of the Past 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b AZ
: Cochise Stronghold
: ... : Mt. Chaktar
Originally rated 5.8 R in the Kerry guidebook, this is now a safe and wonderful route that is little-travelled. There were definitely sections where the climbing seemed much harder than 5.8 (but what else is new in the Stronghold!).Pitch 1: Climb a fairly vertical bolted face with good features up higher. Surmount these jugs and make a run on easier terrain toward the bolted anchors up slightly left. 90 ft 5.9/9+Pitch 2: Consistent slab moves continue to take you in a left-angling direction. ...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
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