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Mt. Ann

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1st Crag, The 
Cracker Crag 
Lot Crag, The 
North Slab 
South Dome 
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Mt. Ann  


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Location: 42.6114, -70.7299 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,114
Administrators: Old Timer, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris McNeil on Nov 30, 2012
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Description 

This is an area of West Gloucester comparable to Redrocks minus the glory of the main wall. There is a plethora of boulders (Dike's Pond area) throughout the wood here and about half a dozen awesome crags which offer both slab and crack climbing.

Getting There 

Follow New Way Lane to the green gate. Make sure you do not park blocking the gate, probably a two car maximum here. Follow the trail until the first fork, take a right. At the next intersection, take a left. At the third intersection, you will see a sign for the summit, take that right. You will shortly see crags starting on your right.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.9 miles from here

9 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',2],['V2-3',7],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Mt. Ann
Skin Doom, V2.   Sit start on the crescent rail on...

Skin Doom V2 5+  MA : Cape Ann : ... : STD Slab
This is a face climb on slightly overhanging rock so it's a stand out in the South Dome friction scene. Sit start with hands matched on the shallow, left-facing flake, then traverse up and right to yonder jug via two crimps. Top out from the jug, which is easier than it looks (especially if I can do it). Using the face to the far right is considered ungentlemanly. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in MA

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By jim.dangle
Sep 19, 2013
CONDITION REPORT 
BE ADVISED: As of 9/13 there is an emergency police ban on parking on New Way Lane, so alternate access must be found for both Mt. Ann and Dyke's Pond.

The best way I have found seems to be to park in the large dirt lot just south of 128 (near Redrock parking lot), cross the on-ramp, and head down into the woods, but there is a large swamp down there you want to avoid. If you head past the signs and then head down in a SW direction, you will cross a small stream and then after 200 hundred feet or so reach a good path that runs from behind a nearby house to Dyke's Pond and the old path to Mt. Ann. This minimizes sogginess.

Jim
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