This is an area of West Gloucester comparable to Redrocks minus the glory of the main wall. There is a plethora of boulders (Dike's Pond area) throughout the wood here and about half a dozen awesome crags which offer both slab and crack climbing.
Follow New Way Lane to the green gate. Make sure you do not park blocking the gate, probably a two car maximum here. Follow the trail until the first fork, take a right. At the next intersection, take a left. At the third intersection, you will see a sign for the summit, take that right. You will shortly see crags starting on your right.
This is a face climb on slightly overhanging rock so it's a stand out in the South Dome friction scene. Sit start with hands matched on the shallow, left-facing flake, then traverse up and right to yonder jug via two crimps. Top out from the jug, which is easier than it looks (especially if I can do it). Using the face to the far right is considered ungentlemanly. ...[more]Browse More Classics in MA
BE ADVISED: As of 9/13 there is an emergency police ban on parking on New Way Lane, so alternate access must be found for both Mt. Ann and Dyke's Pond.
The best way I have found seems to be to park in the large dirt lot just south of 128 (near Redrock parking lot), cross the on-ramp, and head down into the woods, but there is a large swamp down there you want to avoid. If you head past the signs and then head down in a SW direction, you will cross a small stream and then after 200 hundred feet or so reach a good path that runs from behind a nearby house to Dyke's Pond and the old path to Mt. Ann. This minimizes sogginess.