Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Mt. Ann

Select Area...
1st Crag, The 
Cracker Crag 
Lot Crag, The 
North Slab 
South Dome 

Mt. Ann 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 42.6114, -70.7299 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,880
Administrators: Old Timer, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Chris McNeil on Nov 30, 2012
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

This is an area of West Gloucester comparable to Redrocks minus the glory of the main wall. There is a plethora of boulders (Dike's Pond area) throughout the wood here and about half a dozen awesome crags which offer both slab and crack climbing.


Getting There 

Follow New Way Lane to the green gate. Make sure you do not park blocking the gate, probably a two car maximum here. Follow the trail until the first fork, take a right. At the next intersection, take a left. At the third intersection, you will see a sign for the summit, take that right. You will shortly see crags starting on your right.


Climbing Season


9 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',2],['V2-3',7],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Mt. Ann
Skin Doom, V2.   Sit start on the crescent rail on the arete, then traverse up and left to the juggy shelf, then top out.

Skin Doom V2 5+  MA : Cape Ann : ... : STD Slab
This is a face climb on slightly overhanging rock so it's a stand out in the South Dome friction scene. Sit start with hands matched on the shallow, left-facing flake, then traverse up and right to yonder jug via two crimps. Top out from the jug, which is easier than it looks (especially if I can do it). Using the face to the far right is considered ungentlemanly. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in MA

Comments on Mt. Ann Add Comment
Show which comments
By jim.dangle
Sep 19, 2013
CONDITION REPORT 

BE ADVISED: As of 9/13 there is an emergency police ban on parking on New Way Lane, so alternate access must be found for both Mt. Ann and Dyke's Pond.

The best way I have found seems to be to park in the large dirt lot just south of 128 (near Redrock parking lot), cross the on-ramp, and head down into the woods, but there is a large swamp down there you want to avoid. If you head past the signs and then head down in a SW direction, you will cross a small stream and then after 200 hundred feet or so reach a good path that runs from behind a nearby house to Dyke's Pond and the old path to Mt. Ann. This minimizes sogginess.

Jim