The route climbs a very thin flake/crack with difficult entry moves. It is strenuous to protect taking Lowe Balls, RPs and small camming units. Once you turn the bulge the upper slab/crack eases significantly. There are no fixed anchors. The excellent initial moves are probably 11c once you figure them out but are a very hard flash for that grade.
Ms Fannie le Pump is located about 40 feet up and left of the Huston and Aid Crack buttress. It is the left of three cracks and is located in a steep, left-facing dihedral.
Lowe Balls, RPs and small camming units.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Sep 10, 2002
I recall a tight, steep dihedral with a thin finger crack. My notes say "solid 5.11c, RPs for gear". There is a 5.8 crack to the right, and an easier (5.6) crack right of that; both of these cracks lead into the rock scar.
|By Ken Heiser|
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 4, 2004
The 11c crux moves are the first 5 or 6 moves of the ground in a very weird, awkward and strenuous thin dihedral.
|By Bruce Morris|
From: Belmont, CA
Oct 7, 2004
Ken Duncan's description sounds like the route that I did back in July 1977. There was a left facing dihedral with a very difficult entrance problem stem.
|By George K. Watson|
From: Nederland, CO
Aug 17, 2010
FA was Bruce Morris, not "Moss".