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Mrs. Field's Follies 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Eric Hörst, Cindy Hintz, Charles Ganote (2003)
Page Views: 7,395
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (102)
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Pulling the roof.

Description 

This is a really fun route with a crack, some face, and an overhang on really nice rock.

Start as for Geisha Girl by climbing the wide crack, then straight up to the intimidating roof (easier than it looks). Surmount the roof to the anchors.

Location 

Same as Geisha Girl, at a wide crack just right of the starting block of Bobby D's Bunny

Protection 

10 bolts + 2-bolt anchor. 60M rope.


Photos of Mrs. Field's Follies Slideshow Add Photo
Jeff moving beyond the notorious roof.
Jeff moving beyond the notorious roof.
Preparing to clip before tackling roof.
Preparing to clip before tackling roof.
Lower Part of Mrs. Field's Follies
Lower Part of Mrs. Field's Follies

Comments on Mrs. Field's Follies Add Comment
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By Mark Cushman
From: Cumming, GA
Apr 10, 2008

If I remember correctly, I was a bit nervous about the way the rope ran over some horizontal edges after clipping the anchors. There were a few sharp areas that I thought might give me problems. Anyone else notice this?
By Greg Sudlow
From: PA
May 14, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The roof at the end makes this 5.8 unique and one of the NRG's best in grade.
By Chris I
From: Fresno, CA
Aug 22, 2010
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fantastic route! In my opinion the 5.8 was right off the ground with some balancy moves early. Considering that high first bolts are the norm at the New I wasn't surprised by that, but it made the start interesting.
By Stickman
From: Hampton, Virginia
Aug 17, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Long and fun. I feel that it climbs more like an easy 5.9 when compared to Geisha Girl. Amazingly fun roof. Beware! In high summer there is often an active hornets nest in the cracks above the 5th bolt.
By heathc
May 15, 2012

Sweet Route! Climbs very smooth with a nice crack starting about 4 inches at the base and turning to a crimpy, balancy climb pretty much all the way to the roof. Speaking of! This roof is pretty awesome. Two nice start holds lead to a left throw, heel hook, right throw, and mantle over the top. Climb it!
By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
Oct 20, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Was able to get to the ground with a 55-57 meter rope today with no trouble. Guidebook says 60 meter is a must. Not so much.
By Chad poland
From: Falls Church, VA
Jul 23, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The roof from the ground looks way worse than it actually climbs. Nice line. I placed a cam in the top of the crack before the first bolt.
By RPariser
Jul 25, 2014

This is one of the best 5.8s I've ever climbed. Interesting moves, super tall, and a good view from the top (you might want to bring your camera up this one). Don't miss it!