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Climb the first pitch of MRC Direct
. Instead of stopping at the anchor, do an easy traverse left to a prominent, vertical crack and belay. Climb straight up and over the roof (lots of jugs), and continue on easy climbing to the end of the crack.
To get back down, there are rappel bolts at the top of the mound between MRC Direct
and MRC left. Rappel to the bolts on the top of pitch 1 of MRC Direct
and then to the ground.
Gear to 4 inches, heavy on medium to large nuts, and cams 0.75 to 3. The upper crack is easy but wide. You may want a larger piece up there if not comfortable running it out.