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Old Easy
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MRC Direct 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,134
Submitted By: Skip Harper on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (50)
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Mat Schock getting the critical clip before the bi...

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Found on the west face of Old Easy, 'MRC Direct' (#1 on topo) is one of the most striking lines encountered at Vedauwoo. While it is a true hand crack classic, it may be climbed less than one would expect.

Several cracks overlap and intersect witheach other, making it seem more comfusing than it really is. It is the most central, 2 pitch line with a belay station (B) midway, just under the prominent roof. The crux is turning the roof! After this, one moves up and gradually right to the second belay (on gear). To get to the rap anchors (XX), one climbs up and left (facing the rock) to the rounded top of the formation. Double ropes will get you down in one rap, but a single 60 M rope requires an intermediate stop at the 1st belay station under the roof.

Other variations: MRC Left (#2, 5.7) strikes out left from the first belay on 'Direct', traverses 25' along a ledge and ascends a prominent handcrack which widens to offwidth near the top. The top belay is on gear. The rap is the same as for 'Direct'. The Seam Variation (#3, 5.10a) starts midway up the first pitch of 'Direct' and is then continuous with 'Left'. Ralph Called (#4, 5.10b) is the left crack above the roof of 'Direct' which goes vertical and is continuous with a bolted face to the top rap anchors. Finger Trip Roof (5.10a) is a harder variant of the prominent big roof of 'Direct', taken by going up the right side of the roof, somewhat off line.

Two option exit pitches: Middle Exit (5.9) The Straight Edge (#5, 5.10a). See guidebook for details-take larger pro.

Optional beginning pitch: Arretz Maintenant (#6, 5.9). See guidebook for details.

Protection 

Take all cams from '0' to #3 Camalot (#3 1/2 Friend) and a full set of wires. This route literally 'eats pro'.


Photos of MRC Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Rob about to turn the roof on MRC Direct.  The big cams are to finish on the straight edge.
Rob about to turn the roof on MRC Direct. The big...
Crux of MRC Left, Photographer: Stacy Bender.
Crux of MRC Left, Photographer: Stacy Bender.
Starting up the ultra classic MRC direct. Another beautiful Vedavoo route!!!!!
Starting up the ultra classic MRC direct. Another ...
BETA PHOTO
Katherine Chumacero on the finishing moves of MRC Direct.
Katherine Chumacero on the finishing moves of MRC ...
Mr. Presley obliging a fab buttshot on MRC direct. The gear looks weird b/c this shot is stitched together from a series of photos.
Mr. Presley obliging a fab buttshot on MRC direct....

Comments on MRC Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By Darrin Stein
From: Laurens, SC
Dec 7, 2001

I have a couple photos of this route, but why bother...just look at Anonymous's and you'll get the facts.

This is a great line and is a must do when visiting. Sold jams and placements make for a great few hours here.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Apr 30, 2002
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Ralph Called is crumbling and not very fun at all. My advice is not to bother with that variation.
By Anonymous Coward
May 12, 2003

Straight Edge is a mini-classic, and by far the best finish, IMHO. Quite strenuous and somewhat of a sandbag at 10a though, I thought. Highly recommended in any case. Maybe bring an extra fist-sized piece or two.
By Joe Collins
Aug 11, 2003

I'm glad to see there has been some grade revision for Straight Edge (9+ in Heel/Toe), but 10a is still a pretty big sandbag. A long-sleeve shirt should be a key piece of gear for this variation, since the fist jams are nearly an arm-length back in the crack (for my hands anyway). Save a #4 friend for the belay... the belay does not take large nuts as stated in the guide. A 6' leap is required to get back down to the MRC rap anchors if you top out on Straight Edge.
By Brian Weinstein
Jul 7, 2004

High quality area. We found the top slab to the rap anchors a wee bit frictiony with one bolt and some tasty exposure.
By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
Aug 6, 2008

This can be done in one pitch (140') to the comfortable pillar at the base of Straight Edge.
By BretWith1T
From: Laramie, Wyoming
Sep 6, 2008

We had a 70m rope and missed the ground by 25 feet from the top rap anchors. Unfortunately, those are the least moderate feet besides pulling the roof. This is truly a classic climb, either through the center exit or on the Straight Edge which I did years ago. Highly recommended.
By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 11, 2009

good route for hot sunny mornings as still in the shade. IMHO the roof crux is pretty hard for 9. Moderate 9 leaders beware. But we already know this is Vedauwoo 9 right?