To answer my own question, this route starts just right of "Manhandler" and traverses a bit right on good finger ledges, then straight up to the over hang for a rest on the right, then traverse left to the arete and straight up the face to the top. Finish right of the cap stone for more spicy.
The book says 5.10d, I think more like 5.11a or b. I led it with micro cams, ball-nuts, brassies and testicles. Definitely "R" rated.
This was also a good route as a belayer. I was able to gain a nice stance right next to the pine tree at the base of the climb, but partway through my climber's attempt at a lead my neck cramped. I was able to take him off belay, find a nice perch up and to the right, snap a pic or two, and get him safely back on before he noticed. Also, a great view of the lake off to your right. Definitely four stars.
By Alex A Apr 13, 2010 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+21E3 5b R
Nick, you got the 1st lead, wow bold lead, I did the 1st Ascent TR, over 25 yrs ago, how I named it, as we were, heading to the crag someone yelled, Mr Wizard, Mr Wizard, I do not wont to be a rock climber anymore, then I yelled back, drizzle drazil drown time for this one to come home, for the Cartoon, Mr Wizard and Tutor Turtle,