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Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Cheval 
B-minor Mass 
Disinclination 
Flotsam and Jetsam 
Great Mass in C Minor 
Green Ledges 
In the Heat of the Sun 
LadyFingers 
Manhandler 
Mr Wizard and Tutor Turtle 
No Stranger to the Fist 
Obduracy 
Pigeon Roof 
Power of a Good Haircut 
Rainman 
Saturday Forever 

Mr Wizard and Tutor Turtle 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Alex A
Page Views: 523
Submitted By: Tradoholic on Aug 4, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Go up between the two trees.

Description 

One of the taller routes at Minor Mass.


Location 

Start up the face right of "Manhandler". At overhang grab a rest to the right and then climb left and straight up to the top.


Protection 

DL Style and TR. Has it been led?



Photos of Mr Wizard and Tutor Turtle Slideshow Add Photo
To set the TR for this route and "Manhandler" or "Green Ledges" Go down a few steps at this trail intersection and follow a flat ramp over to a short down climb to the edge of the cliff. It took us some trial and error before we figured this out.
BETA PHOTO: To set the TR for this route and "Manhandler" or "...
Comments on Mr Wizard and Tutor Turtle Add Comment
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By Tradoholic
Aug 4, 2009

I'm not sure if you're supposed to climb left at the first overhang and finish on "Manhandler" or go left at the higher overhang. Beta?

By Tradoholic
Aug 5, 2009

To answer my own question, this route starts just right of "Manhandler" and traverses a bit right on good finger ledges, then straight up to the over hang for a rest on the right, then traverse left to the arete and straight up the face to the top. Finish right of the cap stone for more spicy.

The book says 5.10d, I think more like 5.11a or b. I led it with micro cams, ball-nuts, brassies and testicles. Definitely "R" rated.

Pretty damn fun once I figured out the beta.

By cbilda, a.k.a. MudBat
Aug 5, 2009

This was also a good route as a belayer. I was able to gain a nice stance right next to the pine tree at the base of the climb, but partway through my climber's attempt at a lead my neck cramped. I was able to take him off belay, find a nice perch up and to the right, snap a pic or two, and get him safely back on before he noticed. Also, a great view of the lake off to your right. Definitely four stars.

By Alex A
Apr 13, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R

Nick, you got the 1st lead, wow bold lead, I did the 1st Ascent TR, over 25 yrs ago, how I named it, as we were, heading to the crag someone yelled, Mr Wizard, Mr Wizard, I do not wont to be a rock climber anymore, then I yelled back, drizzle drazil drown time for this one to come home, for the Cartoon, Mr Wizard and Tutor Turtle,

By Tradoholic
Apr 13, 2010

Thanks, info adjusted above. One of the better routes of the area in my opinion but I'd never heard of it until pin pointing it in the guidebook.