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Mr. Stubbs 

Mr. Stubbs 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a A0

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 150', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a A0 [details]
FA: John Middendorf and Walt Shipley 1989
Page Views: 134
Submitted By: Ben Kiessel on Jan 19, 2013
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Bill on the first pitch.

Description 

There are many options to the first pitch. We chose a wide crack in a corner on the east side.

P1: Climb the corner at 5.9+ to the ledge and build an anchor by slinging some rubble.

P1.5: 3rd class around the south side and up a ramp to the SW side. The bolts with rivet hangers on them will be obvious on the summit block.

P2: Climb up to the base of the 3 bolt, bolt ladder. Do a couple free moves up and right off the last bolt to a 3 bolt anchor on the summit.

One long rappel down the west side will get you to the ground.


Location 

Walk from the car to the base of the talus cone. Scramble through the small cliff bands on the talus cone on the south side. There seem to be many different options for the first pitch, we started the route on the east side of the tower as DR4 suggests.


Protection 

If you climb the first pitch we did I would take a single set from .3-3 camalot plus two #4 and a #5. Three quick draws, aiders, 2 ropes.



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Bill on the last pitch.
Bill on the last pitch.
Sitting Hen
Sitting Hen
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By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Jan 21, 2013

A buddy and I did what we think to be the second ascent of this years ago (10?).

Anyhoo, we did score 2 mint A5 beaks that were used for the anchor (Middendorf/Shipley). As I recall I was able to twist the cables and they just fell apart in my hand.

Might not be the second(not that it matters) but I would assume if somebody else was up there they would have scored those beaks.

Choss pile but cool summit and view.


Jeremy Aslaksen