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Mr. Squirrel Places a Nut 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Guy Lords? Ken Trout?
Page Views: 5,826
Submitted By: Ramin Jamshidi on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (66)
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Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a mix of everything: some crack moves, open-handed slopers, layback moves, and a roof to pull over. There are non-existent feet through the lower face, especially at the crux moves between the 3rd and 4th bolts.

Protection 

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

The bolt in the roof was loose and starting to pull. It has been replaced!


Photos of Mr. Squirrel Places a Nut Slideshow Add Photo
Julia cranking hard over the roof.
Julia cranking hard over the roof.
Ken Trout on one of his own, part 4.
Ken Trout on one of his own, part 4.
Ken Trout on one of his own, part 3.
Ken Trout on one of his own, part 3.
Ken Trout on one of his own, part 2.
Ken Trout on one of his own, part 2.
More of Ramin.
More of Ramin.
Friso turning the roof. That is a big roof.
Friso turning the roof. That is a big roof.
Matt working on the route.
BETA PHOTO: Matt working on the route.
Ken Trout on one of his own, part 1.
Ken Trout on one of his own, part 1.
Eric over the roof. Where are the feet???
Eric over the roof. Where are the feet???
Mr. Squirrel.
Mr. Squirrel.
At the lower crux.
At the lower crux.
Sidelines, In Between the Lines, Offline, and Mr. ...
BETA PHOTO: Sidelines, In Between the Lines, Offline, and Mr. ...
Mr. Squirrel Places a Nut and Off Line.
BETA PHOTO: Mr. Squirrel Places a Nut and Off Line.
Mark Sellers moving into the roof.
Mark Sellers moving into the roof.
Mr. Squirrel's beginning.
Mr. Squirrel's beginning.
Yeah, I know he's hanging, but the "secret&qu...
BETA PHOTO: Yeah, I know he's hanging, but the "secret&qu...
Brandon hanging out before a roof push.
Brandon hanging out before a roof push.
Ramin Jamshidi showing you how the job gets done.
Ramin Jamshidi showing you how the job gets done.
Zack, I believe?  E-mail, and I'll send you some m...
Zack, I believe? E-mail, and I'll send you some m...
BETA PHOTO
I guess this is off route but, anyway, This is the...
BETA PHOTO: I guess this is off route but, anyway, This is the...
Argghhh!!! I should have lead it.  Photo by Eli Po...
Argghhh!!! I should have lead it. Photo by Eli Po...
Awesome climb! Loved every minute of it!
Awesome climb! Loved every minute of it!

Comments on Mr. Squirrel Places a Nut Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 17, 2014
By Bryson Slothower
Dec 14, 2001

Does anyone place a nut under the roof of this route. I have placed one before but don't realy think it's necessary. I've heard that the route gets its name from the placement though...anyone? I thought this route was rated 10.c until I saw it listed here, that makes me feel better...
By Scott Duke
Oct 15, 2002

The classic of Table! It's an 11 if you follow the crack to the left, then traverse under the roof to the heel hook. If you blast straight up the bolts, it's 12ish! A nut up in the horizontal crack will better protect a fall, but the rope drag sucks. No TR'ing here. Lead it, baby!
By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
May 24, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

There's a mysterious hidden crimp out to the far right on the cruxy face, for the sportsters, that may come in handy for some. Otherwise, better work on Helicopter for awhile before testing your crimping skills here.
By Sam Benedict
From: Denver, CO
Dec 14, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This is no doubt one of the best routes at the Table, if not THE best. It has been a project of mine since I started climbing, and is one hell of a testpiece. It is fair to say it's harder than 11c due to the baby-bottom like texture of most of the holds, and the very beta-intensive nature of the route. But if you put everything together smoothly (on a cool day), it can actually feel like 11c.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Nov 28, 2007

Guy Lords was watching me dangle under the roof while taking a break from his Lying On The Ground project. I proposed placing a nut under the roof. Guy pointed out that nuts were for lightweights and rodents, and then came up with the route name. Neither of us ever placed the nut because we found a beta trick. I found the trick on top rope, not onsighting.

For too many years I'd see good climbers flash the face-crux and then get stymied by the clip over the roof. That is exactly what I'd intended; that this climb would require hang-dogging to send. We'll I don't like how I used to think, so there is a new bolt in the roof now. The loose bolts at the lower crux are fixed too.

I not really sure what to rate this, but I'm glad people like it.

By Not So Famous Old Dude
From: Denver, CO
Nov 10, 2008

Straight up the bolts, through the crimpy face feels like full value 5.11c. There are no true recovery-style rests on the thing, just less pumpage after you get under the roof on the bigger holds. The roof is comparatively easy if you ask me - you are just drained by the time you get there.
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Feb 25, 2009
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

This is a great route. Tricky, fun face climbing up to a rest, then a fun roof to pull.
By J Antin
From: Denver, CO
Apr 10, 2011
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Full value for sure. Really enjoyed this line!
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Feb 12, 2012

Pretty simple fix for that bad looking bolt. Take a wrench and hammer up there and loosen the nut 1 or 2 turns then tap the bolt back flush with the rock and re-tighten the nut. Be careful when you re-tighten the nut that you don't apply too much torque.

You might also want to re-position the hanger so that it receives minimal downward torque in a fall.
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Feb 13, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Good idea, Bruce, thanks for the tip. I'll give it a try if I make it up there soon.
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Feb 23, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

I tried going up there and just pounding the bolt back flush and re-tightening it, but this didn't work at all. Within only a few bounce tests, the bolt had pulled even further out than it was before. This bolt definitely needed to go. I replaced it with a Rawl 5 piece and a new Fixe hanger.
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Feb 23, 2012

Jay,

Sometimes you can retighten them, sometimes not. My guess is that the bolt has been fallen on sufficient enough times that the hole was now bad. Good call on the replacement.
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
Feb 23, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Hey Bruce, that's what I figured. Still glad for the tip, might save me some money and work in the future. But yeah, that bolt had been beaten to death.
By Kris Holub
From: Boulder, Colorado
Sep 10, 2012

Is this route supposed to go straight up the bolts or left of the bolts with a rightwards traverse under the roof? The way the bolts are placed it feels off-route to stay left (reachy clips), but all the chalked up holds are on the left side and non-existent holds on the right make it seem harder than 11c to fire up the bolts.
By Andrew Riley
From: Yangon, Myanmar
Feb 17, 2014

In my opinion, following the bolt line of Mr. Squirrel is more difficult than .11c. It was much more difficult for me than "Death of Innocents," "Lying on the Ground," and "Unknown Route (Brown Cloud);" all of these routes are N. Table routes that are rated 5.11d. I would say that it was on par or slightly easier than Mrs. Hen (12a) and Chicken Dance (12a).