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 ADVANCED
Nip and Tuck
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Antagonism S,TR 
ArÍte S,TR 
Bock! T 
Boiling Point T,TR 
Caddis/Argus S 
Capital Punishment 
Constrictor T,TR 
Dan-D-Line T,TR 
Doc's Route T,S 
Ebb Tide TR 
Finger Crack T,TR 
Gyro Captain S 
Hare Balls TR 
Heart Throb TR 
Hypotenuse T,TR 
Left-angling Crack T 
Lethal Dose T 
Mr. Spiffy S 
Night Train TR 
Old Dihedral T 
Spread Eages Dhare T,TR 
Surprising Slab TR 

Mr. Spiffy 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Darius Deavers
Page Views: 2,183
Submitted By: jonah on Apr 13, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Chris Schulte bouldering out the direct start to G...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Mr. Spiffy is on the overhung wall next to the parking area for Nip & Tuck. The regular start begins with an awkward mantle. The moves go left from here, through some big but hard to use sidepulls, then to a jug on the arete (which is surprisingly hard to clip from). A couple thrutchy moves and you're at the crux, which involves pretty tough body position on slopey crimps and gastons pulling over the lip. Look for a key right foot under the lip to get your hips up, and it's all over.

I may be a puss, or maybe I was doing the moves wrong, but this thing feels really hard. I heard someone bouldered it out and called it an 8. Yikes.

Protection 

3-4 bolts, chains at the top.


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By Jim Redo
Apr 14, 2003

Pat Adams did the first ascent of this route.
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Apr 14, 2003

If anyone bouldered this out ground-up, everyone would hear about it. A dicey balancy crux at 20+ feet with a deadly landing. 13X for sure
By Anonymous Coward
May 22, 2004

attn.Peter Beal, I am wondering why is Mr. Stiffy not in the guide? This route is a "classic" short, hard, contrived, very painful, also would like to note there is no " HIKING" for my little legs!! thanks so very much for listing!!
By chris schulte
May 27, 2008

Hi there..
To clarify, both myself and Seth Allred bouldered out this route a while back.. I've also heard that Dave Graham bouldered it out a few years ago.. Maybe V8 from the direct.. Yep, a pretty scary mantle, but not unreasonable with 3 mondo pads... ;) Buttermilk like....
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
May 27, 2008

Chris,
That is amazing even with mondo pads. Way to go! BTW the mantel on Mr Spiffy is just past the last pad in the photo so you're looking at a 30' drop onto jagged rocks on a 13a crux. The start is definitely harder than V8. That's probably the most significant highball/solo in the Front Range in quite a while. I can't believe it wasn't reported!

bouldercanyonbouldering.blogsp...
By chris schulte
May 28, 2008

Thanks, Peter..

BTW all, this is a photo by Andy Mann!!