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 ADVANCED
Zappa Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aid Line (Chockstone Roulette?) T 
Beside the Pillar T 
Big Hands Roof T 
Blood Pulse T 
Calcite Fingers T 
Curve, The T 
Dirty Red Cam Corner T 
Far Right Corner T 
Flake (unknown there was no plaque) T 
Fork It (HVS) T 
Frank Zappa Appreciation Society (aka Cobra Roof), The T 
Green Cam Lie Back T 
Hands to OW T 
Hands to OW Chimney (unknown due to no plaque) T 
Hanging to the Right (unknown due to no plaque) T 
Leaning Corner (aka Moderation) T 
Left Leaner T 
Mr. Sheeley T 
My Big 3 Inch (no plaque at bottom) T 
One Bolt Wonder (unknown not a plaque) T 
OW Corner T 
Point 5 roof T 
Short Corner T 
Short Dihedral T 
Short, Some Hands T 
Slightly Overhanging Wide Corner (unknown no plaque) T 
Zig-Zag T 

Mr. Sheeley 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: ?
Season: any
Page Views: 438
Submitted By: rob pizem on Dec 9, 2012

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Rob on the T-rope on Zig Zag. Eds. The route to t...

Description 

This is the ever-widening offwidth dihedral to the left of the Zig-Zag route.

Protection 

Bring gear 3-6 inches.


Comments on Mr. Sheeley Add Comment
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By rob pizem
Dec 9, 2012

For a picture, see the Zig-Zag photo.
By slim
Administrator
Dec 9, 2012

This is actually an existing route (Mr. Sheley, 10c, 150 ft). The pitch ends at the top of the pillar. As with many routes at Escalante, the climbing doesn't end when it gets wide. If bolts have sprouted 60 feet up, they probably won't last very long.
By rob pizem
Dec 11, 2012

Slim, I was just out there this past weekend and noticed the new anchors. I was surprised about their appearance. I figured that it went to the top and wondered why they were there. I am glad that you identified the history of the pitch. I have not climbed it yet but will take it to the top next time to enjoy it all. By the way, if you head out, keep an eye for the HUGE rockfall to around the corner to the right. The entire column fell over, it is insane!!!
By Mike Storeim
From: Evergreen, CO
Dec 24, 2012

Just curious - Why is the name Catholic Girls still attached to this route?

It's only aka that name by whoever retro bolted an anchor halfway up an existing climb that already had an anchor at the top that can be seen from the ground.