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Mr. Popular 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ed Esmond
Page Views: 1,364
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on May 15, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (62)
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Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Very hard to get of the ground on this climb. Shorter climbers struggling at the grade won't be able to get off the ground.
However, once you are off the ground this climb becomes quiet fun and moves very well over great Rumney schist.
This climb finishes on some very fun moves on underclings while traversing across a bulge to the anchors.

Location 

On Meadows slabs third route from the left.

Protection 

6 Bolts to quick clips.
DON'T TOPROPE OFF THE ANCHORS, USE YOUR OWN GEAR.
Please, educate polietly people around you that might be toproping off the quickclips, it is an all too common practice of lazy folks and gym rats.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 19, 2013
By Dom
Administrator
From: New Brunswick Canada
Oct 6, 2008
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

This route is at least a 5.10 because of the start...
By BiRD
Apr 16, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Really easy route wih really hard start... interesting... but can't get 5.9 for the start!
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Apr 21, 2009

This route is between Thou Shalt Not Covet (formerly the start of The Coveted) and False Modesty, yes?
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 21, 2009

that is true sir... And the opening moves are harder than the cruxes of some 5.11s at rumney...lol...
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 8, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I hate to talk bad about any route but I had a really hard time not giving this route the bomb rating... its just weird, the top moves are fun though...

and the description says third route from the left it is actually the sixth
By GarrettM
From: bedford, nh
May 12, 2010

this was my first lead climb. fell from the anchor with an arm reach of slack. Big whipper to the middle of the slab and cracked my heel. Put lead demons in my head for 3 years. I have a vendetta against this route.

Went back and did it again though.
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
May 12, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Garrett you are not the only one who has taken that fall i saw someone fall to the first bolt doing the same thing, but one route to the left. looked like a scary fall...
By S. Neoh
Aug 1, 2010
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Just about the most cruxy climb I have ever done; solid 5.10 moves (I am rather short) to get off the deck to 5.7/5.8 climbing for the rest of the route.
Mr. Popular, not!

P.S. One of the quick clips is worn halfway through. Please set up TR using your own draws and rap off instead of lower off after you are doe with the route.
By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Apr 14, 2012
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

It's my understanding that the first bolt can be climbed on the left or right of the start. I chose the left start, and found the move to be extremely delicate and balance, harder than the balance crux of Hammond Organ. Good route though.
By twellman
Sep 3, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I climbed this today after doing Captain Fingers, and getting off the ground made me feel like I was still on Captain Fingers! Super hard for "5.9". Probably more like a V2 then 5.7. I guess at Rumney that somewhow averages out to 5.9 though haha.
By superkick
From: West Hartford, CT
Jul 15, 2013

had no trouble with the start at all. Delicate balancy moves offshouldnt ork and like crimpers not the greatest hoklds, but if you have good footwork and like crimpers should not be too tricky of a move.
By B-Mkll
From: Bozeman, MT
Aug 19, 2013

If this climb started 8 feet off the deck it would be a generous 5.7... Didn't find the start as hard as others seem to have.