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 ADVANCED
Snake Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dr Demento's Descending Demise T 
Geek Crack T,S 
Go for it Lulu T 
Hairless T,S 
Hodge Podge T 
Hubba Bubba T 
IIlusion Chain T,S 
Jo Bubba S 
Mr. Pitiful T,S 
Rude Boy AKA Rue Boy T,S 
Seven Sharp T 
Sidewinder T 
Tronolane T 
Viper, The T 
Wake of the Flood T 

Mr. Pitiful 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Peter Hubbel, Bruce Burnell, Andy Archer, 8/84
Page Views: 186
Submitted By: slim on Mar 15, 2008

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  • Description 

    Mr. Pitiful is a pretty good, little route that starts in a left-facing dihedral formed by a small pillar. Scramble up, move left and clip a bolt after a roof of sorts. Follow several more bolts straight up on pleasant, slab climbing with good edges, friction, and crystals. The rock is slightly friable in places, so be a bit careful.

    The climbing is pretty fun as it seems that there is always a good stance close by.

    Make your way up to a tree growing out of a crack. This tree usually has webbing, but it might be old webbing. If you don't like the tree, you can climb about 15' higher to a ledge, and scramble across it to the right. After about 30' you will run into the bolted anchor at the top of 'Geek Crack' and 'Illusion Chain'.

    Location 

    Approximately 60% to 70% of the way to the right of the buttress. Snake Buttress is naturally split into 4 parts and this part would be the 3rd to the right. Look for a left-facing dihedral that is formed by a 20' spike of rock leaning against the slab.

    Protection 

    Primarily bolts (bring about 8 or 10 draws), and perhaps a light rack with wires to tight hands. The dihedral at bottom is bigger, but I don't remember as it was pretty easy. You can scope this part easily from the ground.


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