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Western Spaces Wall
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Black Sun  
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Mr. Natural of the Desert 
Western Spaces 

Mr. Natural of the Desert 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Warren Egbert, Dave Wonderly
Page Views: 554
Submitted By: Jon O'Brien on Apr 21, 2009
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Description 

We were lured back there by Handren's "finest finger crack" comment.. Unfortunately, (hindsight being a bitch) we only brought finger sized gear! The first half is a 5 inch corner crack and the roof really calls for another big piece. We bailed halfway up on a yellow metolius.


Location 

My boy fixed all new lines for the approach... Enjoy the lines! One involved naked swimming through the devil's anus to get it fixed... (you'll see) LOL


Protection 

Two 5's wouldn't go unused. Big question mark concerning gear linking the roof section to the crack proper



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By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
Apr 21, 2009

Anyone got any beta? We bailed halfway up. Dirty rotten fear was the culprit...(and a lack of gear)

By Loganator
From: blue van, on the highway to no
Nov 13, 2013

We read something about naked swimming through the "devils anus" in order to access this route. After yarding up on 5 or so core shot fixed lines, chimneying over several of these "demon anuai pools", and hopping over loose chockstones, we got to the final crux of the approach: a 15x8 foot pool with no easy way of getting around. We tried to go around via an easy looking slab. (Easy slab? ha!) Once Jack got to the other side of the pool via the slab and realizing there was no dry way back, he prepared for the dirty dunk... until we realized an easy tyrolean traverse is used to bypass such a messy pool! we got Jack back with only a slight dampness on the rope. Needless to say, we didn't climb this line. If it's as fun as the approach, I bet it's a splendid line! Great adventure.