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 ADVANCED
(01) Jabba the Hutt/Sport-Homo Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Demon Within S,TR 
Duuuude! S,TR 
I'm Just a Little Hoppy Bunny S,TR 
Leaning Slab S,TR 
Mr. Moto T 

Mr. Moto 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 71
Submitted By: Alexander Nees on Apr 25, 2007

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Description 

This climb is a tease. At the very end of the cliff is an obvious and attractive looking wide-hands crack. Unfortunately the crack ends about halfway up the cliff. Climbing the crack is enjoyable, but the rest of the climb is on loose, sandy, lichen-covered rock that is nearly unprotectable. It's not difficult at all, but be prepared to be essentially soloing if you 'lead' this one. There is no anchor at the top, and building one is hard, so TRing is not very appropriate either. Generally not recommended, except if you want to boulder the bottom 10-12 feet or so, practicing your jams.

Location 

The last climb on the cliff, right next to the railroad tracks. Look for the obvious crack. Walk off.

Protection 

Trad gear. No bolted anchor. The obvious handcrack takes pro nicely, but it ends about halfway up. Above the crack, you'll struggle to find any pro at all, and a fall from near the top would be very serious. Very difficult to build an anchor at the top due to bad rock and no cracks. NOT a recommended lead.


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