|Big Toe to Great Chimney
Start up the 10- slab to the left of Homo Erectus. Cruise to the base and up the right side of the wall, through horizontals at the bottom and in middle of the overhanging wall above. Long reaches, a key hand slot, and a lucky catch gets you to a finishing mantle, followed by a couple of satisfying 5.8 moves in the upper short dihedral to the top.
The small amphitheater to the left of Homo Erectus has four climbs with Modern Life is Rubbish on its left edge. To the right of this is Mr. Lucky. The right crack filled with pigeon poo is Foie Gros (5.7), and the right wall is Coup de Gras (510a. Similar to Coup d' Etat, but obviously easier).
This must go...
Lower start to Mr. Lucky.
Opening steep edges and horizontals wall to the ro...