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 ADVANCED
Big Toe to Great Chimney
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Coup de Gras T,TR 
Double Jeopardy T,TR 
Grand Illusion T,TR 
Homo Erectus T 
Icarus TR 
Impervious Horror TR 
Modern Life is Rubbish T,TR 
Mr. Lucky TR 
Psamead Ghostdance T,TR 
Stuck Knee T,TR 

Mr. Lucky 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 128
Submitted By: Erol Altay on Oct 3, 2012

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Overhanging wall at left is Mr. Lucky. Center cra...

Description 

Start up the 10- slab to the left of Homo Erectus. Cruise to the base and up the right side of the wall, through horizontals at the bottom and in middle of the overhanging wall above. Long reaches, a key hand slot, and a lucky catch gets you to a finishing mantle, followed by a couple of satisfying 5.8 moves in the upper short dihedral to the top.

Location 

The small amphitheater to the left of Homo Erectus has four climbs with Modern Life is Rubbish on its left edge. To the right of this is Mr. Lucky. The right crack filled with pigeon poo is Foie Gros (5.7), and the right wall is Coup de Gras (510a. Similar to Coup d' Etat, but obviously easier).

Protection 

This must go...


Photos of Mr. Lucky Slideshow Add Photo
Lower start to Mr. Lucky.
Lower start to Mr. Lucky.
Opening steep edges and horizontals wall to the route "Mr Lucky".  Also a good way to start "Coup De Gras" route if on TR.  A fun mantle move onto pine needle ledge to finish.
Opening steep edges and horizontals wall to the ro...

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