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L to R R to L Alpha
I won't give this route an R rating since I've never seen it described that way. It would not receive an R rating in North Carolina, but it probably would in newer climbing areas. It is protectable, but it is also serious. The newest guide describes it as "altogether a more memorable and scary experience [compared to Dr. Jekyll]."
Right side of the face. First pitch is marked by a huge chunk of quartz about 30 feet up, followed by some dark water streaks.
Rack of wires from micros to large. Bring the best tiny stuff you have, you'll need it. Also Aliens or c3's or small cams are useful and ball nuts if you choose.