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BETA PHOTO: The cracks of the first pitch can be seen here, fo...
I won't give this route an R rating since I've never seen it described that way. It would not receive an R rating in North Carolina, but it probably would in newer climbing areas. It is protectable, but it is also serious. The newest guide describes it as "altogether a more memorable and scary experience [compared to Dr. Jekyll]."
The route starts below a few faint flakes that lead to a chunk of quartz. Climb to this and then head right over some obvious water streaks, using a this crack for protection. 5.10. Belay at the large dish on the right (bring big wires or cams for belay).
The second pitch heads back left. A bolt protects the tricky traverse out onto the face and then a thin seam/flake is all you get. The climbing is sustained and the protection is very thin and spaced. Bring brass offsets or microwires and a few Aliens. Ball nuts might be useful. 5.10+.
Use the same bolted belay as Dr. Jekyll. Abseil descent.
Right side of the face. First pitch is marked by a huge chunk of quartz about 30 feet up, followed by some dark water streaks.
Rack of wires from micros to large. Bring the best tiny stuff you have, you'll need it. Also Aliens or c3's or small cams are useful and ball nuts if you choose.