Type: | Trad, 230 ft (70 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Thrbjorn Enevold and Trond Solberg 1999 |
Page Views: | 814 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Ryan Williams on Jul 10, 2013 |
Admins: | Phil Lauffen, Michael Sullivan |
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Description
I won't give this route an R rating since I've never seen it described that way. It would not receive an R rating in North Carolina, but it probably would in newer climbing areas. It is protectable, but it is also serious. The newest guide describes it as "altogether a more memorable and scary experience [compared to Dr. Jekyll]."
The route starts below a few faint flakes that lead to a chunk of quartz. Climb to this and then head right over some obvious water streaks, using a this crack for protection. 5.10. Belay at the large dish on the right (bring big wires or cams for belay).
The second pitch heads back left. A bolt protects the tricky traverse out onto the face and then a thin seam/flake is all you get. The climbing is sustained and the protection is very thin and spaced. Bring brass offsets or microwires and a few Aliens. Ball nuts might be useful. 5.10+.
Use the same bolted belay as Dr. Jekyll. Abseil descent.
The route starts below a few faint flakes that lead to a chunk of quartz. Climb to this and then head right over some obvious water streaks, using a this crack for protection. 5.10. Belay at the large dish on the right (bring big wires or cams for belay).
The second pitch heads back left. A bolt protects the tricky traverse out onto the face and then a thin seam/flake is all you get. The climbing is sustained and the protection is very thin and spaced. Bring brass offsets or microwires and a few Aliens. Ball nuts might be useful. 5.10+.
Use the same bolted belay as Dr. Jekyll. Abseil descent.
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