|289 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 150 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.10c/d [details]|
|FA: ||Lee Brinckerhoff, Marc Ripper, Bryan Pletta|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||LeeAB on Aug 3, 2008|
This is the right route on the wall. Start below a right facing corner, climb up into this then trend up an right on a ramp feature, then blast straight up the wall passing several small roofs en route to the rap anchor at the top of the wall.
To find this route and Dr Jeckle, head up a gully/slope to the left of the main hole in the wall formation Miss Piggy, contour along a wall on your right up a larger brush choked gully, after a couple of minutes you will see the top of the wall as a bump of rock to your left on the other side of the gully. Cross the gully where the brush thins and you are among a small stand of aspens. Head up a slope towards some giant steps leading to a notch just right of the top of the formation. This should deposit you in a nice small flat area from which you can head up to your right to the top of the formation 20'. This leads to another small flat area where you have to head over some head height rocks, or around them to get to the anchors, which are just below the top but easily visible on a 45 degree slab with a small ledge just below and to the climbers left. This should take about 5 minutes from the base of Miss Piggy. 2 rappels with a 60m rope gets you to the bottom of the wall, or lower in and TR out. Another option exists to head left from the bottom of ??, this will involve some exposed scrambling over a large boulder and a fallen tree leaving you at the top of a very steep dirt chute that you must cross to get to the base of the climbs.
Bolts and gear up to a #2 camalot.
From: The 505
Aug 4, 2008
Great route and a good addition to the Hole in the Wall cragging. This and its neighbor are fun, long pitches. All the recent rain has completely obscured the "trail" leading up to the top of these climbs.