Mr. Henar 5.12c PG13
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Description This route wanders a bit and the bolt placement is questionable (i.e., ran out). Although it's a bit sketchy, it's a must do, as the iron cross crux will have you grinning with pain.
Location This route is in between Blind Prophet and Crackin' Up. Start on the blunt arete.
Protection bolts, bolted anchor
By Rmsyll From: Winston-Salem, NC Jul 4, 2012
| The "iron cross crux" is still there, but for a new bolt replacing the old chain anchors. There are new ring anchors on the face above there, similar to the other routes on that wall. The sling is gone, presently replaced by Fixe chains the same length. More will be done to make this highly visible route into a safer route. If you do try it, do take a "bail 'biner", because it is still the same "bold" route. . |
By NCRob83 From: Chapel Hill, NC Jul 23, 2012
| I Redpointed this route last weekend. I have heard a lot of bad things about this route. I am here to break all that hype and tell you this route is bad ass! It has a new set of anchors and amazing movment and climbing on it. A hard move at a small side pull under a roof leadds to a just near the bolt for the second chain. A long reach to a bucket will take you to some high footwork for a move that will open up your wingspan for sure. Foot work around the rope is key in that section and the falls are clean. I think this is the best pitch at Pilot. |
By ABG From: Winston-Salem, NC Aug 29, 2012 rating: 5.12
| Best pitch at pilot. Should be getting done every weekend. Clean falls on bomber bolts. Nothing else on this route needs to be changed. |
By sanz From: Raleigh, NC May 14, 2013
| I will add a third vote that this is the best route I have done at Pilot. It has shiny new bolts, as well as 2 bomber chains and 1 bomber permadraw to protect the steeps. The grade comes from a tough boulder problem under the last roof. Up to the first permadraw is hard 5.10. |
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