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Amphitheater
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Arms Control S 
Black and Blue Velvet S 
Blind Prophet S 
Buzzard's Breath TR 
Cow Patty Bingo T 
Crackin' Up T 
Dihedral Route T,TR 
I'm Flyin' TR 
Mild Mannered Secretary S 
Mr. Henar S 
Mrs. Henar S 
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Pole Dancing S 
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Too Old to Rock and Roll TR 
Turkey Shoot S 
When Shrimp Learn to Whistle S 

Mr. Henar 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,148
Submitted By: Bennett Harris on May 2, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Almost the whole route shown

Description 

This route wanders a bit and the bolt placement is questionable (i.e., ran out). Although it's a bit sketchy, it's a must do, as the iron cross crux will have you grinning with pain.


Location 

This route is in between Blind Prophet and Crackin' Up. Start on the blunt arete.


Protection 

bolts, bolted anchor



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By Rmsyll
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Jul 4, 2012

The "iron cross crux" is still there, but for a new bolt replacing the old chain anchors. There are new ring anchors on the face above there, similar to the other routes on that wall. The sling is gone, presently replaced by Fixe chains the same length.

More will be done to make this highly visible route into a safer route. If you do try it, do take a "bail 'biner", because it is still the same "bold" route.
.

By Dr. Rocktopolus
From: Chattanooga, TN
Jul 23, 2012

I Redpointed this route last weekend. I have heard a lot of bad things about this route. I am here to break all that hype and tell you this route is bad ass! It has a new set of anchors and amazing movment and climbing on it. A hard move at a small side pull under a roof leadds to a just near the bolt for the second chain. A long reach to a bucket will take you to some high footwork for a move that will open up your wingspan for sure. Foot work around the rope is key in that section and the falls are clean.

I think this is the best pitch at Pilot.

By ABG
From: Winston-Salem, NC
Aug 29, 2012
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Should be get done more often. Clean falls on bomber bolts. Nothing else on this route needs to be changed.

Comment edited on 10/22/13:
This route has changed quite a bit in the last year. Bolts were removed but holes not filled in, one bolt was repositioned, and anchors were installed in the middle of the route. Still one of the better at Pilot but an interesting set of events.

By sanz
From: Raleigh, NC
May 14, 2013

I will add a third vote that this is the best route I have done at Pilot. It has shiny new bolts, as well as 2 bomber chains and 1 bomber permadraw to protect the steeps. The grade comes from a tough boulder problem under the last roof. Up to the first permadraw is hard 5.10.

By Trevor V.
From: Santa Barbara, Ca
Jul 3, 2013
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a PG13

A decent climb for sure. If the bottom was harder it would be much better. I found it to be easier than Blind Prophet. Great job on the extended draws, route felt very safe to me.

By Mark Paulson
Aug 20, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

One of the best lines at Pilot. Super-soft at 12c. I felt it was more like 12a, maybe b if you're short.