A great route, and without a doubt the best 'hard' route at The Egg. Some big moves, some steep-ish, alot of tricky, thin stuff, and a tough (but safe) clip in the crux -- all this on great stone.
This is a very devious route which epitomizes Yangshuo-style thin and delicate face climbing. The climbing is fun from bottom to top, and though it has a definite crux section, one can still fall off near the top on the home stretch. Don't celebrate until clipping the anchors!
The guide book has it at 12b (7b), though hints that it may be 12c. Everyone I've spoken too agrees: this is solid 12c.
Walk around from the Fried Egg face (East face) by staying on the upper path, climbing up the ~2m step, and walking past Wonderful World to the next small belay area. Mr. Greenwood is the middle route (between Pumpy Brewster, 11a and Sha Bi Ab Bi, 10a), the obvious thin face route with a large right-facing sidepull at the beginning.
You can also approach from the North Face, walking left through the cave along the path.
Bolts to a two bolt fixed anchor.
From: ABQ, NM
Jul 5, 2011
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
This is a beautiful line with interesting and difficult movement.
It is too bad that you can reach the routes on either side of it through all but one short section in the middle. Kind of squeezed on a beautiful panel that is just slightly too small to really fit a route.
Oct 11, 2013
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
A nice break from the consistently steep nature of the White Mountain area. In my memory, this and Banyan Tree stand out as some of the most quality vertical/face routes in YS.
The 12b rating is spot on for the region, but would be very soft by most other standards. I blew the onsight going for the chains during a time when I would have struggled up an 11+ stateside.