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A good route on great rock with bad lichen. It needs a good clean brushing! This route merits 2 stars as is and has potential for 3 if it gets cleaned up. The climb is even better if finished via Auto Repair in a single 140' pitch. Auto Repair is already clean....
From the single bolt belay stance (backed up by gear), reach up and left out of a corner to clip an bolt then move over to a jug (hard for short people). Mantle the jug (balancy) then clip another bolt before moving up onto the slab (crux) and following a line of bolts to a ledge with an anchor- your starting point. All of the hard climbing is on clean rock, but the upper slab was not brushed down other than the few necessary holds. Cleaning this would produce a nicer climb.
Belay at the anchor, or continue ON GEAR (include a few fist+ sized pieces if you are squeamish) on Auto Repair (5.7+).
To reach this line, start on the 'starting ledge' as arrived from the approach trail. Look East and tunnel through the formation behind a huge boulder, arriving 30' East at a 2-bolt rap station. Rap down 65' to a ledge with a single bolt belay station that can be backed up by gear. You will pass a licheny face with 5 bolts on the way down- giving you perfect opportunity to scrape or brush the climb... which it needs.
5 draws for clipping the bolts plus something to clip into the bolted anchor at the bottom and top. The bottom belay anchor is a single bolt intended to be backed up by a 2.5-3" cam.
From: Pinewood Springs
Oct 3, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Since Little Narrows is a 5.10, then this climb seems like it'll have to be a 5.9.
|By George Bracksieck|
Oct 6, 2011
Ross -- If you are tall, as you (and Bernard Gillett) are, it may seem like 5.9, and you were following with an almost-snug rope. Because I couldn't see you from above, I had the rope pulled up all the way, so any stretch wouldn't let you ledge out if you popped off of the opening (crux) moves.