Mr. Goodwrench  5.10

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet Consensus:  5.10b [details] FA:  B. Gillett, 2006 Season:  Faces SE Submitted By:  Tony B on Aug 16, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

A good route on great rock with bad lichen. It needs a good clean brushing! This route merits 2 stars as is and has potential for 3 if it gets cleaned up. The climb is even better if finished via Auto Repair in a single 140' pitch. Auto Repair is already clean....

From the single bolt belay stance (backed up by gear), reach up and left out of a corner to clip an bolt then move over to a jug (hard for short people). Mantle the jug (balancy) then clip another bolt before moving up onto the slab (crux) and following a line of bolts to a ledge with an anchor- your starting point. All of the hard climbing is on clean rock, but the upper slab was not brushed down other than the few necessary holds. Cleaning this would produce a nicer climb.

Belay at the anchor, or continue ON GEAR (include a few fist+ sized pieces if you are squeamish) on Auto Repair (5.7+).

Location 

To reach this line, start on the 'starting ledge' as arrived from the approach trail. Look East and tunnel through the formation behind a huge boulder, arriving 30' East at a 2-bolt rap station. Rap down 65' to a ledge with a single bolt belay station that can be backed up by gear. You will pass a licheny face with 5 bolts on the way down- giving you perfect opportunity to scrape or brush the climb... which it needs.

Protection 

5 draws for clipping the bolts plus something to clip into the bolted anchor at the bottom and top. The bottom belay anchor is a single bolt intended to be backed up by a 2.5-3" cam.