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Mechanical Man
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Mr. Goodwrench 
Tooth, The 

Mr. Goodwrench 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: B. Gillett, 2006
Season: Faces SE
Page Views: 145
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 16, 2010
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Description 

A good route on great rock with bad lichen. It needs a good clean brushing! This route merits 2 stars as is and has potential for 3 if it gets cleaned up. The climb is even better if finished via Auto Repair in a single 140' pitch. Auto Repair is already clean....

From the single bolt belay stance (backed up by gear), reach up and left out of a corner to clip an bolt then move over to a jug (hard for short people). Mantle the jug (balancy) then clip another bolt before moving up onto the slab (crux) and following a line of bolts to a ledge with an anchor- your starting point. All of the hard climbing is on clean rock, but the upper slab was not brushed down other than the few necessary holds. Cleaning this would produce a nicer climb.

Belay at the anchor, or continue ON GEAR (include a few fist+ sized pieces if you are squeamish) on Auto Repair (5.7+).


Location 

To reach this line, start on the 'starting ledge' as arrived from the approach trail. Look East and tunnel through the formation behind a huge boulder, arriving 30' East at a 2-bolt rap station. Rap down 65' to a ledge with a single bolt belay station that can be backed up by gear. You will pass a licheny face with 5 bolts on the way down- giving you perfect opportunity to scrape or brush the climb... which it needs.


Protection 

5 draws for clipping the bolts plus something to clip into the bolted anchor at the bottom and top. The bottom belay anchor is a single bolt intended to be backed up by a 2.5-3" cam.



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By Ross
From: Pinewood Springs
Oct 3, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Since Little Narrows is a 5.10, then this climb seems like it'll have to be a 5.9.

By George Bracksieck
Oct 6, 2011

Ross -- If you are tall, as you (and Bernard Gillett) are, it may seem like 5.9, and you were following with an almost-snug rope. Because I couldn't see you from above, I had the rope pulled up all the way, so any stretch wouldn't let you ledge out if you popped off of the opening (crux) moves.