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Southeast Face
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Mr. Gone 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 550', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: J. Bassett, D. Braddy, 1982
Page Views: 1,477
Submitted By: Aaron Martinuzzi on May 30, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Aaron M. on the first pitch, cruising up the finge...

Description 

Mr. Gone is awesome. There isn't an awkward move on the route, the rock quality is consistently excellent, there's a remarkable amount of challenging terrain compared to most other SE Face routes, and many runout sections make this quite an experience.

P1: Face climb past three bolts to gain an excellent seam/finger crack that leads, eventually, to easier terrain. Run it out over the lower angle slab to gain a good belay ledge (shared with Jetstream Deluxe) beneath the Prow. Protection can be tough to come by on this pitch, in both cruxy sections and on easier ones. A heads-up belay is encouraged for the first part of this pitch, as it's a bit of a jog to the third bolt, and from the third bolt to the finger crack. 5.10- R-, 60+ m.

P2: Blast straight up the steep face off the ledge (8 or so feet left of Jetstream Deluxe's nice corner), aiming for a bomber old button-head bolt in the middle of the face. There is protection to supplement the bolt, but you do have to work for it. Grab a rest at the horizontal break in the face, place pro at your feet, and launch into an exciting sequence up the remaining headwall, gaining a thank-god jug and easier terrain above. Aim a little left to a splitter, low-angle, left-facing dihedral to enjoy the best bit of 5.6 at Greyrock on the way to a belay when the rope runs out. 5.10- R, 60+m.

P3: Find your way to the top of the wall. If you handled the runouts and thin face climbing lower on the route it's likely you'll be comfortable covering the remaining 4th class terrain unroped. 4th/Easy 5th class, 100 feet

Location 

About 75 feet left of The Greatest Route a large, left-facing dihedral rises off a grassy ledge. The first crack system left of this, with a little pine tree in it, is Jetstream Deluxe. Mr. Gone heads up the face past three bolts just left of this feature.

Protection 

A light rack is all you'll need for this route. Nuts (offset micros recommended) and a single set of cams from Purple Metolius to #2 Camalot is adequate.


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By Kevin Landolt
From: Fort Collins, Wyoming
May 31, 2010

I backed off leading the first pitch after the second bolt. Following Aaron, I still felt the crux was the runout stretch between the second and third bolt. There's groundfall potential, though as Aaron stated, an attentive belay (yard in slack and run backwards) could advert injury. If you dig slab, this route will make your day. The prow on the second pitch is stellar as well. Overall, the best route I've yet climbed on the SE Face. I look forward to growing a sack (believe me, I'm trying) and leading this route soon. Awesome! Four-stars for sure.
By Frank K
From: Bishop, CA
Jul 6, 2010
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

Nice slab, not sure if the runout between 2 and 3 is a grounder or not. Falling there would definitely be scary. I'm pretty sure the crux is right around the first bolt though. I climbed a finger crack left of the old rusty bolt, which seemed the logical way to get up that headwall.... It was good and took good gear.
By Kevin Landolt
From: Fort Collins, Wyoming
Dec 22, 2010

"My hands still sweat when I think of Tom Moderson leading the blank lower face of Mr. Gone long before the bolts were added, or meandering up the Granite Sea with Jeff Bassett before a single bolt graced the face. Standard practice was to tiptoe up a blank face armed only with a rack of small wired nuts and hope for the best."
- Pat McGrane

Badass for sure. Greyrock has a proud history.
By Andy Nelson
From: Fort Collins, Colorado
Oct 27, 2013

I followed the first pitch today, and I truly enjoyed this climb. Thinking of the FA without the bolts is mind boggling. Reminds me of old school trad routes in Sam's Throne, Arkansas. The delicate face climbing seemed like the crux, and the finger crack was awesome. Bring a good selection of small cams as well as your crimping and edging A game.