Approach this classic pitch by climbing the obvious hand crack (Fantasy) to a bolted station up and left of the tat anchor directly above Fantasy. Climb up and right off the belay to gain a fixed wire of some sort then surf up and left clipping bolts. This route offers some really good exposure and cool moves out horizontals and crimps. There is a rusty old chain anchor at the top of the climb. One 60 meter rope will see you to the ground.
Fantasy Roof Area at Endless Wall.
A traditional rack is needed for Fantasy Crack to approach the roof which is protected by just draws.
Look out Brit! Robby Balls living up to his name o...
By Rick Mix
From: Nederland, Colorado
May 27, 2012
So, I put this route up with Nino Rocha.
I used a cam before the bolts.
Glad to see it's getting done.
The route name is Dear Mr. Fantasy.