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 ADVANCED
Fantasy Area
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Aesthetica 
Black and Tan 
Blackhappy 
Doce Doe 
Erotica 
Fantasy 
Fantasy Face 
Mr. Fantasy 
New Fangled Dangle 
Riddle 
Stick, The 
Tide, The 
Two-Step Arete 
Virgin Thing 

Mr. Fantasy 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,726
Submitted By: chad umbel on May 31, 2007
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Chad enjoying the day with his friends on Mr. Fant...

Description 

Approach this classic pitch by climbing the obvious hand crack (Fantasy) to a bolted station up and left of the tat anchor directly above Fantasy. Climb up and right off the belay to gain a fixed wire of some sort then surf up and left clipping bolts. This route offers some really good exposure and cool moves out horizontals and crimps. There is a rusty old chain anchor at the top of the climb. One 60 meter rope will see you to the ground.


Location 

Fantasy Roof Area at Endless Wall.


Protection 

A traditional rack is needed for Fantasy Crack to approach the roof which is protected by just draws.



Photos of Mr. Fantasy Slideshow Add Photo
Look out Brit! Robby Balls living up to his name on Mr. Fantasy.
Look out Brit! Robby Balls living up to his name o...
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By Rick Mix
May 27, 2012

So, I put this route up with Nino Rocha.
I used a cam before the bolts.
Glad to see it's getting done.

The route name is Dear Mr. Fantasy.