Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Hornets Nest
Select Route:
Anaphylactic Shock S 
Beetle Juice S 
Butterfly S 
Hornet's Chimney T 
Lonesome Cowboy T,S,TR 
Mothra S 
Mr. Critical S 
Pollinator, The S 
Second Hand Rose Arete S 
Swarm S 
W.A.S.P. (center variation start) T,S 

Mr. Critical 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 5,116
Submitted By: Cameron Luth on Oct 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Keen Butterworth through the hard stuff... Mr. Cri...

Check NPS for Closures

Description 

This route is a classic. good moves on crimpers and crystals, and a bit balancey.

Location 

This route is on the west face of hornets nest. If you start from the right side it is the 4th route after a detatched flake, starts to the right of a little overhang.

Protection 

13 bolts and there are anchors on top, bring 2-3 sized cam for the horizontal crack to clip 12th bolt if you are short but there is a good undercling to clip bolt, and 2 ropes to get down.


Photos of Mr. Critical Slideshow Add Photo
Why did I not refill my chalk bag?  Mr. Critical, ...
Why did I not refill my chalk bag? Mr. Critical, ...
Mr. Critical
Mr. Critical
Shalayne into the thin section
Shalayne into the thin section
Goofball Aaron Costello, with Jay following Mr. Cr...
Goofball Aaron Costello, with Jay following Mr. Cr...
Travis on Mr. C.
Travis on Mr. C.
Mr. Critical
Mr. Critical
Trinh with an onsight attempt
Trinh with an onsight attempt
The final section of Mr Critical
The final section of Mr Critical
Mr. Critical, May 09.
Mr. Critical, May 09.
Sustained from the get go.
Sustained from the get go.
Travis pinching classic crystals on Mr. Critical.
Travis pinching classic crystals on Mr. Critical.
Mr Critical
Mr Critical
Moving up to the crack
Moving up to the crack
Where did the guidebook say to go again?  The righ...
Where did the guidebook say to go again? The righ...

Comments on Mr. Critical Add Comment
Show which comments
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jul 15, 2008

Highly recommend this route. Just wonderful climbing. Side note: last two bolts are rusted/thin and in need of replacement. But the belay anchors are new, beefy, and well-equalized.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jul 23, 2009
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

I walked by and under this route many times in the preceding 5 years, each time looking up longingly and then coming up with some lame excuse for not going for it. It really boiled down to intimidation. The route is long, mostly vertical, and looks serious. Other 11's at Rushmore are very tricky and can be very balancy and beta intensive. Well, this year was it. Go for it, I say. Superb route!!! It was the best route I've ever done. Most memorable anyway, super fun every step of the way. Every varied move, crimp, balance, slab, the feel of the rock, the rests, the breeze, the pine tree scent, Harley's on the road, it's all fantastic. Do it!! Don't wait 5 years like I did. Oh, and I'm 5'10" and although I brought my #3 camalot, I didn't need or place it. I could reach the bolt above the bulge.
By Ryan Angelo
Jul 7, 2011

It can be done with a single 70m. Great Route!
By irujo
Jul 14, 2013

badass climb, serious credit to all you Rushmore climbers
By vernon phinney
From: pocatello, idaho
Jul 10, 2015

Derivation of the name: "Mr. Critical". The methods of establishing this route were meant to provide climbers numerous topics to criticize!

1) At the time, Devil's Tower first ascensionists were criticizing the style being used in the Black Hills for establishing new routes (ie; ground up using NO AID!) Mr. Critical was put in using top down ethics - bolting on rappel.
2) The route was top-roped first to assess the quality of the climb/rock.
3) The route essentially goes up a face just to the left of a CRACK!
4) The initial bolt hangers were multi-colored (painted), with stripes, polka-dots, etc. George and Joane Urioste (Red Rocks, NV) also used painted hangers previously.
5) There is a large weakness near the top that could be used to escape the route; but you must pull the bulge and ascend a short face to actually claim that you have climbed the route!
6) A register was left at the top to collect ALL criticism from climbers; it would be great if a register was maintained - HARD to do!

Criticism was welcomed and expected! Not a surprise that Mr. Critical gets sooo-much praise, however!! Vernon Phinney
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!