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The Parking Lot Wall
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Mr. Coffee 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: D Quinn
Page Views: 720
Submitted By: lee hansche on Aug 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

I'm torn on this route cause it has cool moves for sure and some beautiful jugs on steep rock. However it reminds me a bit of Bone Head Roof (5.10) at the Meadows in that when you are pulling the crux you are really counting on your belayer to keep you off the ledge below you. that aspect makes it slightly less attractive.

Climb up the 5.9 boulder problem start to a big ledge. Walk over to the bolt under the big roof clip it and decide hoe you want to tackle this thing. Surprisingly nice jugs lead to the only non jug on the upper section which is the crux. After that you can stand up and clip the chains.


Location 

30 feet right of Cafe au Lait (5.7)


Protection 

6 bolts to anchors. if top roping the route be careful of the rope running across the sharp rock when hanging.



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By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 28, 2008

Ok i dont ever like to say a route is not worth climbing but after looking at this thing, i want a second opinion, is it worth getting on or is it better off being avoided and just sticking to the better climbs in the area?

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 28, 2008

i say do as many other 5.11s as you can and if you get bored (not likely) try this one...

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 28, 2008

Thats how i felt but i would like to do all the routes at the parking lot wall so i will have to give it a go i guess

By Jake D.
From: Northeast
Oct 8, 2009

I tried this soon after dave put it up and struggled. and like matt in my quest to finish the wall i did it this summer. definitely some burly moves and harder for shorter people.

By S. Neoh
Oct 9, 2011
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I actually thought the short crux section is quite good and BURLY. But the rock quality and sharpness before and after this section detracts from the overall quality. Too bad.
Not a good candidate for the aspiring 5.11 leader.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Feb 13, 2012

I'd say this might not be one you would feel to repeat often, but worth doing if nearby. It has some good moves. I agree with Soon's description.

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Apr 21, 2012

Red pointed this today after trying it once on lead last week. Was not thinking about hitting the ledge when I was clipping. Fun moves indeed!
Maybe it's just me, but this was my first 5.11 red point and found it to be a good first 11 because of how short it is.