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Leading the pretty nice Mr. Clean route.
A good finger crack and stemming dihedral.
Climb a short section of choss to the top of a short broken pillar to the right of the belay.
Climb the corner dihedral in front of you. There is a bolted line on the face to the right of the corner. Finger locks and stems stay consistently interesting to the top. Belay from bolts on top (no rappel or lowering hangers).
Just right of Boshido (bolted 10.b) there is a alcove with 5 crack routes. Mr. Clean is the right-most corner above the broken pillar. Just left of the next bolted route (Friends 10.d).
Mostly small with a couple hand-sized. Slings to avoid drag on first couple pieces.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Mar 21, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
This is a good lead if you are new to 11a cracks, protects well with small cams and nuts, some hard moves to good rests makes this a pretty easy 11a. There are a few hard to protect chossy bits to bypass, but they are short bits.