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Lower Castle Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aids Victim T,S 
Amy Carter T 
Bird's Nest Overhang T 
Blood Transfusion T,S 
Bone, The T 
Brass Balls T 
Catapult T 
Clean Love T 
Fault, The T 
Flying Frog T 
Idiot's Delight T 
Idiots journey T 
Mr. Clean T 
PG Advised T,S 
Shriek of the Mutilated T 
Smut T 
Vertebrae., The T 
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Mr. Clean 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Yoder, Phil Rainwater, 1980.
Page Views: 573
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure Update: Noontime and Midnight Rock now open MORE INFO >>>


Face cracks and ledges left of "The Fault" chimney.


Pro to 1".

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By Jplotz
From: Wenatchee, WA
Jun 12, 2013

I love how this short pitch sandbags the unsuspecting climber. Standing at the base looking up at it, one notices decent cracks for jamming and pro. However, once you launch into it, the route feels immediately steeper and more serious. The feet, it turns out, aren't as generous as you thought. And it's hard to hang around to place pro. If you have a long reach, then overall the crux may feel a tad easier. But Mr. Clean is every bit the 5.10c it is rated!
By drsoc
Aug 31, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Completely agree with Jplotz's comment! My short person beta is: Climb it with your left hip turned in!
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