Mr. Clean 5.11a
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 500 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Henry Barber '77 |
| Submitted By: | Andy Johnson on Oct 5, 2003 |
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A climber at the rest on P2...
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North Face of Devils Tower is temporarily closed for falcons, AND has a voluntary closure each June. MORE INFO >>>
5/31/2013 The NPS has announced that the North Face of Devil's Tower is temporarily closed for nesting prairie falcons until further notice.
Separate from the falcon closure, Devils Tower National Monument has a voluntary climbing closure in effect for the month of June, out of respect for American Indian cultural traditions. For further information on climbing closures, please see www.nps.gov/ns/deto/planyourvisit/junevoluntaryclosure.htm For general climbing information please contact the Devils Tower Climbing Office at 307-467-5283, ext. 632.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This climb is unbelieveable. You will want to lick your fingers when you are done just to make sure you got it all. Begin about 20 feet left of Tugley Wood. Look for the obvious small, bright yellow roof about forty feet up. Begin with a short, enjoyable approach pitch that brings one to a stance with chains below the roof. Pitch 2 is the crux. Fire through the roof (single crux move) then continue for a full-value pitch up the incredibly sustained fingers and thin-hands crack. This pitch is probably about 165 feet long with no truly great rests. The are chains at the top of the pitch. Keep your eyes open for feet out on the left face, they will save you. Pitch 3 looks fun and goes at .10a, but most parties rap at the top of the second pitch. Another great .11a testpiece very similar to Carol's crack, but slightly easier
Protection Lots of medium and large stoppers. Many cams in the .5 inch to 1.5 inch range. Many hands and big hands if you plan to do the third pitch.
Dave Pagel and Roger Volkman
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By Andy Johnson
Oct 7, 2003
| I would definately agree with the above comment. However, unlike many Devils Tower routes, this one does protect very well with cams. Still you could easily sew this one up with bombproof stoppers. |
By nolteboy
Sep 7, 2006
| Truly a world-class route. Put some nuts on single 'biners (~ #6 thru #11 stopper sizes) and just "drop 'em in and clip 'em". Good spots for 4 or 5 each of #0.75 and #1 Camalot sizes, too.
As mentioned above, passing the yellow roof is the technical crux of the pitch. Nothing after that approaches .11a for any single move, it's just super enduro. Don't miss the killer rest on the arete to the right at ~75 feet out.
Pitch 3 looks really good- we rapped off at end of p.2 |
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Sep 7, 2006
rating: 5.11a
| Cracks just don't get much better than this one! If you have one route to aspire to at this amazing Devils Tower, it should be MR. CLEAN! |
By Guy H.
From: Fort Collins CO
Jan 30, 2008
| I found this great shot of Mr. Clean on ST. Photo |
By TomKingsbury
Feb 19, 2008
| Haha,
nice shot, the time i posted it, got teased, because i obviously yammed on the last few pieces.
Franks old hostess, Lisa, about to clean a million pieces of gear!!!
very good route btw, hard to imagine dereck hersey onsight soloing that thing!!!
edit: i found carol's crack to be much easier than mr clean, along with the direct sw. maybe because the other two are locker fingers compared to the tight hands here. |
By Brian Weinstein
Mar 5, 2008
rating: 5.11a
| Great pic Guy...very reminiscent of my experience on the route...I racked up with about 15 stoppers on their own biners...plugged and chugged. My 70 meter rope felt like a truck while clipping during those last moves. Superb Line...one of the best anywhere!!!
Tom...I found this thing slightly easier then Carol's Crack... |
By David Champion
From: Centennial, CO
Sep 6, 2011
| Unless you lead comfortably a grade or two harder than this climb, you'd be best advised to not try to link Ps 1 and 2. After climbing it we watched two strong leaders try this, and just fail to reach the anchors. Rope weight/drag was undoubtedly a factor. The P1 belay is not uncomfortable--though not visible from the base there's an adequate ledge there. |
By aschwartz
From: Spearfish,SD
Dec 3, 2012
rating: 5.11a
| Do not stop at the first set of anchors. Leader fall at the crux could result in a proverbial ass hat. |
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