This is the aid route (Deliverance on the Truckee A2, led by Aaron Silverman in 95) in the Falcon guide book, and a long standing top rope before that.
First crux is right at the second bolt, but is well protected. The main crux is at the bottom of the small seam. The crux is establishing your feet at the base of the seam.
Just to the right of spring break. Start directly under the small tree on the ledge.
There are four bolts and chains at the top. Bring standard rack w/ small stuff as well.
The lower crux on "Deliverance on the Truckee."
About to finish the tricky seam section.
Toping out on an onsight ascent.
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 6, 2009
Did Balkenbush lead the climb with the existing bolts or free it on TR?
|By Brian Biega|
Mar 17, 2009
First time posting here.
Climbed Mr. Bigglesworth 5+ years ago. Onsight, no falls and no problem with the four bolts and additional gear placements. The climb was in the 5.11- range and was certainly a great addition to the already established climbs.
It's a pity that routes get retro bolted by climbers who don't have prior knowledge of the area and/or tradition. The challenge of working any additional gear only adds to the fun. This route resembles many of the Tahoe classics challenging the leader to place natural protection.
Adding additional bolts to existing routes changes the quality and adventure of the 1st ascent.
Mar 29, 2010
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
I'm not sure i quite agree with the 5.11- grade posted on this climb, because it is much harder than "Total Recall" 5.11b and it is very sustained and has multiple cruxes. Otherwise this is an amazing route testing both your physical ability to climb and your mental ability with the committing runout at the bottom then the RP placements higher up in the small seam. (Similar to Joshua Tree routes in the more demanding sense then the clip and go sport routes commonly found around the U.S.)
|By Colonel Mustard|
From: Reno, NV
Nov 5, 2011
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
The grade seems spot on to me. It just depends on your strengths. For example, I found Total Recall to be a bit harder. This climb is uber classic though and would be a much ballyhooed ***** classic in areas like Joshua Tree (similar climbing style). I just have to muster the requisite cajones to lead it now. It's that high first bolt with the requisite smeary moves and deck potential that keeps getting me.