This route is made up of a big jugs and long reaches. There is a nice horn for a shake out near the top. Clip the last bolt and go! Really fun climbing.
To the right of Captain Cupcake. Starts just right of the yellow/greenish rock at the bottom in the cave.
6 bolts, chain anchors.
This was my first 12.a fun climb but hard on the h...
From: centerville, utah
Nov 30, 2009
Seriously overhanging with reachy buff moves. The last half is just 100 grain sandpaper. Hands and rope will take a beating. The toughest part is going to the small seam with your right hand at about the 4th bolt then at the 6th bolt going up to a sloper after the really good horn. Big moves. Cleaning is tough. Very fun for the overhanging ape moves needed.
|By Leif E|
Jan 1, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
By far my favorite route in the area so far, big moves, big holds, overhanging, and lots of power involved! Definitely a great route, but be ready for what feels like boulder problem to boulder problem with exposure and a rope!