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This is a short corner climb near White Pillar. The crux is the corner -- it felt pretty stiff for 5.8+. Start below and left, making a few hard steep-face moves as you approach the corner.
March 2010: the tree that served as a rappel anchor has fallen down.
Probably the best way to find this route is to go to White Pillar and then backtrack about 100' The route follows a clean and appealing left-facing corner that starts a bit off the ground. It's about 10 - 15 minutes out from the popular part of the cliff. It's also just right of the striking right-leaning white flake of Giddah!
I found the crux hard to protect until I noticed a spot for a ball nut. A passing climber informed me that the only good pro for the crux was that ball nut that I had placed. There's other pro down lower but the ball nut made me way happier.
|By Dana Bartlett|
May 2, 2009
I just did this recently, and I found a placement for a TCU (Metolius, purple) that provided good protection for the crux. A Ballnut may well be helpful but for me, it wasn't essential.