|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 90'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]|
|FA:||Mark Tarrant, Richard Wright|
|Submitted By:||Mark Tarrant on Jul 11, 2004|
|Comments on Moving Zen||Add Comment|
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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 15, 2004
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
|Second opinion: Moving Zen runs up nearly perfect stone to join Training Day at its pegmatite band in P1 and finishes at the three bolt belay of TD. Mark had originally considered stopping MZ short of the pegmatite, leaving it entirely on perfect granite, and the hard-core may quibble about finishing on more moderate terrain. The logic of finishing at the belay stance seemed good, and a lower belay just seemed unnecessary and cluttering. MZ has two distinct cruxes as Mark indicated. Negotiating the first cruz is powerful, tricky, and hard to suss, and I'm still trying to do it without the dog. This lower crux involves moving over a small roof into a right-facing corner that would turn into 5.10 if it had a single good hand-hold. As it is, it is really powerful and asks for a lot of flexibility. The secod crux, at the second roof, is even more powerful. It begins with a heel hook and moves into progressively harder terrain with some bad open-hard palms. My estimate is 12c for this sequence alone, so linking everything may be 12c/d. The rest between cruxes may keep it level at 12c. Mark got the pro just right. The stone is good, and the moves are powerful and interesting. Two or three stars is probably correct. Kudos to Mark for hiking MZ on his second try.|
By Chris. T.
From: Longmont, Co.
Jul 2, 2012
|A proud pitch, requiring some very unique body movement and geometry. Bring a full bag of tricks for this one, and don't forget some power! This is a hard onsight, especially when it is void of any chalk. Flow (or 'Zen') can be found only after dialing in the correct sequences. The rock is perfect until it joins the top of 'Training Day'. The finish detracts a bit from the overall quality, but the route still deserves 4 stars for the climbing up to that point. Get on it! Long slings for bolts 1, 4, and 5 definitely help with rope drag.|