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moving to alaska-question for local climbers in anchorage
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By akafaultline
Nov 19, 2012

Hey,
So I am moving to anchorage and this may be a lame question but here it goes.
Looking online at various sites, there doesn't seem to be much trad climbing that is accessible for just day climbs in the anchorage area. Am I better off just selling my rack because I won't use it much for the next couple of years? Is there much trad climbing in the area that can be done on day trips?

Thanks


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By Bang
From Charlottesville, VA
Nov 19, 2012
Thanks Hank Caylor!

Just curious, are you in need of money? Otherwise why selling your rack instead of keeping it for future climb?


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By Dustin
From Pagosa Springs, CO
Nov 19, 2012

akafaultline wrote:
Hey, So I am moving to anchorage and this may be a lame question but here it goes. Looking online at various sites, there doesn't seem to be much trad climbing that is accessible for just day climbs in the anchorage area. Am I better off just selling my rack because I won't use it much for the next couple of years? Is there much trad climbing in the area that can be done on day trips? Thanks



There is no real good 'close' trad climbing in Anchorage.

Don't sell your rack though - just go climb in the AK Range during the summer. There's pretty good adventurous alpine & ice climbing during the winter months relatively close to Anchorage.


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By Brian Prince
From morro bay, ca
Nov 19, 2012
The Seward Highway is really beautiful.

I mean, don't sell your rack unless you need the money. Right?

Anyway, yes, there is trad climbing that can be day tripped from Anchorage. Just not much quality stuff. The Hatcher Pass area is very pretty and, yeah, there are actually some great, granite trad routes. Free camping for weekend trips too. One hour drive to a 5 mile rough road to a 1/2-1 hour (or longer) approach. Endless daylight. Maybe a 4 month season. Or skiing in earlyer.

Like Dustin said, you can use your rack in the winter too.


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By akafaultline
Nov 19, 2012

yeah-I need to come up with some extra cash for some crap. And if there isn't much trad climbing, I would rather get a speedwing (in addition to the paraglider that I have) and a new kayak.

hey, One other question. I own to many down jackets, but I want a "beater" down jacket. I already own the mountain hardwear nilas, some patagonia and montbell ultralight down jackets. How would the mountain hardwear chill wave be for urban use and just casual use regarding the temps in anchorage?


How long is the water ice climbing season in the anchorage area?


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By Mellow Yellow
Nov 21, 2012

Your nearest crags will most likely be on The New Seward Highway -named America's worst crag by one of the rags a handful of years back. At the time, the article rubbed me the wrong way because I enjoyed the craggin' up there and I was new to it all. The Scar was one of the more comprehensive guidebooks for the area at the time, by Kristian Sieling(?). David Whitelaw's guidebook for Hatcher's Pass was what we used as well (I've completely forgotten the name of either edition I once had).

Now that I live and climb down here in the "Lower 48", I would agree that the two don't even compare -if I were to move back up there I'd get back into climbing ice, skiing and playing hockey, and save my (rock) rack for the AK range in the summers or roadtrips back down here. The ice season there is long, and there is plenty at all grades that is easily accessable!

The weather in Anchorage is generally temperate by Alaskan standards, but unless you live in Montana, or Wyoming, or Minnesota, or -you get the idea; I'd prepare for a REAL winter, long and dark.

And, it's ALASKA -forget about brand names or what matches with what for whatever "outfit". Go with shit that works and that doesn't break or tear. No one gives a fuck about that up there, and scoff at us pussies that do down here.


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