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moving back to NC
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By VerticalUrge
Nov 25, 2012

What city or town would you recommend in NC that has close proximity to decent trad climbing and only an hour or two to spectacular trad climbing? Everyone out in the mountain west talks about Asheville being the deal, but are there any other places folks would recommend? Not opposed to Asheville, but I would like to consider other options. Close proximity to other outdoor activities (fishing, mtn biking, trail running) would be a bonus, as well as things such as breweries, live music, restaurants, etc.

I moved away from NC over a decade ago and am considering moving back. I wasn't climbing back then, so I'm not really familiar with the climbing scene there.

Not worried about a job, housing, or living expenses (or other moving logistics) at the moment, just focusing on climbing/outdoor criteria first.

Thanks in advance!


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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Nov 25, 2012
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.

Brevard, Asheville, Boone, Charlotte...there is stuff decently close around the raleigh area but pales in comparison tot he aforementioned. Also take a look at Greenville SC.


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Nov 25, 2012
El Chorro

Depends on what kind of climbing.

For me, climbing in NC without Moore's Wall is like eating a vegetarian burrito. It is some of the best climbing you'll do anywhere, and if you don't like it then you've probably chosen the wrong sport. I know plenty of people who moved to Asheville or Brevard from the Triangle or Triad and they are always talking about how much they miss Moore's.

All that said, the climbing areas in the west are big and awesome, and the granite is excellent and of amazing quality. Maybe the best part of living in a western city like Asheville is that there are more options, making the seasons longer (ie, year round climbing).

Then there are the road trips. Do you want to drive to the Red and/or T-Wall, or do you want to drive to the New?


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By KatAndrew
Nov 25, 2012

Dude,
Asheville is where its at! Lived there for 7 years and have missed it in the last year and a half I've been in Boone. The Avl area has access to everything. Mecca for good beer, mountain biking, trad, bouldering, and good food! And easy to road trip it to the red, t-wall, obed, moores, etc. Do yourself a favor and move to Asheville!


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By VerticalUrge
Nov 25, 2012

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Ryan and Rob- I've gotten in a day of climbing at Moore's and Quaker State and Zoo View are two of my favorite routes I've ever climbed. Can't wait to get back.

Can anyone comment on the climbing areas closest (i.e. after work accessable) to Boone and Asheville? Mainly interested in trad.

What are the climbing communities like in either of those places?

Rock-fencer- whats Greenville like?

Thanks


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By nbrown
From western NC
Nov 25, 2012
Top of Shortoff with the Bonsai

I've lived in south Asheville for almost 8 years now, and while it's the closest part of town for climbing access (Rumbly, Brevard area and beyond) it's still not quite as close as Moore's was from Winston Salem when I lived there. Like others said, I definitely miss being close to Moore's, but that's about it for the piedmont. Lots of big granite climbing around the Asheville area (if you're into that sorta thing).

Good luck with your move.


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By Sure-man
From Boone, NC/ S.F.
Nov 25, 2012
On Las Aguajas with TW0 summit in the background

Boone is pretty great for trad climbing. Less than 45 min to Shiprock (incredible single and two-pitch trad routes), a little over an hour to Linville Gorge (years worth of fantastic multipitch trad), and lots of smaller spots for some great gear climbing... others maybe closer to Asheville, but still not far from Boone are Looking Glass, Rumbling Bald (favorite)... tons more. Minimal sport climbing and plentiful bouldering as well in the area.

-Brett


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By boo
Nov 26, 2012

Boone, but if you want a non-climbing small town....Morganton .

I had Moore's as a backyard, and I would say wholeheartedly, I'd rather have Linville as a backyard.

Gingercake Acres is the development leading into Linville. There are affordable homes for sale in there.

otw, Boone. (Sorry to all of my high country friends for sending one more auto to town.)


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By rock_fencer
From Columbia, SC
Nov 26, 2012
Myself placing a a blue/yellow offset MC to protect between Bolt 2/3 just post crux . <br /> <br />Picture credit goes to eric Singleton, and many thanks to Josh Bagget for the great belay.

VerticalUrge wrote:
Thanks for all the suggestions. Ryan and Rob- I've gotten in a day of climbing at Moore's and Quaker State and Zoo View are two of my favorite routes I've ever climbed. Can't wait to get back. Can anyone comment on the climbing areas closest (i.e. after work accessable) to Boone and Asheville? Mainly interested in trad. What are the climbing communities like in either of those places? Rock-fencer- whats Greenville like? Thanks



Greenville is interesting. I went to highschool there and hated it. Came back after grad school and really like it now. Good downtown, good food, pretty good employment opportunities. Not the most established climbing community, but once you get out you'll meet the right people. There are a few folks from Greenville that get out regularly, sadly i'm not longer one of them as i just moved to Columbia for medical school.

As for Mountain biking in town at Paris mtn about 20 min or 50 minuites to Dupont National Forest or 1:30 to pisgah proper.

Climbing Wise: Takes about an hour to get to looking glass, hour 15 to get to rumbling bald. 2 hrs to linville or Tallulah Gorge (GA) or Laurel Knob or Whitesides, 2:30 to Ship Rock and boone area, 3 hrs to stone mountain, Obed, 5 to t-wall and chattanooga area crags, 6-7 to NRG/RRG, 8 to seneca. Local bouldering about 30-45 minutes and some local instate climbing at Table Rock SC if your game is up to par. 2 climbing gyms (they are alright)

Greenville is a bit more yuppie than Asheville and its probably less liberal but without the hippies. 2 Hrs from ATL and 1:45 from CLT and have a pretty good local airport GSP. Personally i like it because its centered around everything. Not as close as Asheville/Brevard but i think it has more to offer.

Really depends what your looking for and your situation is. I just figured id throw it out there because its an option people tend to overlook.


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By VerticalUrge
Nov 26, 2012

rock_fencer wrote:
I just figured id throw it out there because its an option people tend to overlook.


thanks, those were exactly the type of suggestions I was looking for. Would never have thought of it otherwise.


and thanks for all the other input, folks, I appreciate it!


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By Steve86
Nov 26, 2012

For what it's worth, Charlotte is ~2 hours from all of the climbing in the state (Moore's, Stone, Linville, looking glass, Rumbling bald, etc.). Nothing is super close except for crowders but if you needed to be in a larger city for employment reasons (I do) it's a good setup. There's a surprisingly good amount of single track that's not far away too.


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Nov 26, 2012
El Chorro

If you're truly looking for "after work access" you'll need to think carefully and get more info from people who actually do the after work thing. Most areas are going to be a 25-50 minute drive from anywhere that you may work.

What I can tell you is that Brevard and Boone are probably the best places for after work climbing and they are also both great for weekend trips and longer road trips. They are different though.

Brevard isn't really a city, but it has a large enough population. There is a university there, but depending on what you do, it could be hard to find solid work. Maybe not, but you didn't ask about that.

You can be climbing at Looking Glass from work in less than an hour. The base of LG is just above 3,000 ft in elevation and a lot of the routes get sun, so the season is long. If you can get off early, you'll have more cold weather after work options here than you would in Boone, but short days make it harder when it's cold. Still great on weekends if you don't want to drive anywhere. When it is hot, you have the North Side and some other shady areas, but on summer weekends you'll probably drive to the high country and on the coldest weekends you'll go bouldering or rope climbing at Rumbling Bald. You're also 3-4 hours from Chattanooga which has good winter climbing. You can ask Nate, but I don't think you could do after work climbing from Asheville, as it is about an hour north of Brevard.

Boone is a weird place. Also a university, and cool locals, but a bit more trendy and hipster. Also, every time I'm there it feels jam packed with tourons. I often feel a bit rushed and claustrophobic if I'm in Boone on a busy day.

There are crags over 5,000 in elevation so when the days are longest and it's hot, you still have a lot of small options. You can leave work at 5 and be roping up at Ship Rock at 6. Also other areas along 221 with great trad/sport/bouldering - all close(ish) to town. On weekends you'll be in Linville Gorge, which is probably THE climbing destination the southeast. On the coldest weekends, again, you'll be driving to Rumbling Bald. RRG and NRG are close enough for weekend trips.

When I move back to NC it will probably be to one of these areas. Boone is attractive because it's closer to my family and NC beaches and Moore's Wall and the Red and the New. Brevard is attractive because it is small and quiet but still cool with things to do. It's a bit out of the way so you get touros but not like the high country. You are farther from New, Red and Moore's, but closer to the big granite areas like Laurel Knot and Whitesides and also closer to the Chatty climbing.

Good luck!


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By VerticalUrge
Nov 28, 2012

Thanks for all the helpful insight. Looking forward to getting after some sweet Carolina climbing!


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By Adam Paashaus
From Greensboro, North Carolina
Nov 28, 2012
After you get done climbing be sure to head up to the summit for sunset. Its only a 10 minute walk from the main wall. Don't forget your headlamp.

Here is a thread I started a couple years ago when I was moving back to NC. These are some classics I was stoked on. NC has some of the best rock anywhere! enjoy.www.mountainproject.com/v/nc-route-suggestions/106978958#a_1>>>


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