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Movie Variation 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,918
Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Mar 19, 2004

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Description 

This pitch is a really good way to finish Schoolroom or Schoolroom West. From the tree belay below the last pitch of either of those route, climb up and right to the gorgeous overhanging dihedral. Jam and smear under the roof and around the corner - tenuous 5.8 but really well protected. Jam the handcrack above until you get to some jugs, at which point it is low 5th class to the belay tree.


Protection 

finger to hand or fist sized pieces. nothing smaller than a red alien.



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By Nathan Fisher
Oct 14, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I found this to be a hard 5.8. Protection is wonderful, and climbing is great, it just seemed to me to be harder than other 5.8 cracks. Maybe, because there are few to no "stances". Jamming on this over the head crack seemed to me to be harder than it was worth, so I just used the undercling/lieback technique. Love that transition move to the vertical crack.

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 30, 2005

Solid little cottonwood 5.8!! This one will test your foootwork for sure! Short, but not to be missed! careful how you runner at teh corner...my partner runnered poorly, and piched his rope....fighting drag all the way to teh top! doh!

By vincent pierce
Sep 27, 2005
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

5.8? I must have done something wrong cause I struggled after it turns the corner and goes vertical. The undercling shuffle is quite fun and if it were longer it might get an extra star. Unfortunately it's really only a few moves and you're done.

By Anonymous Coward
Nov 24, 2005

This thing kicks ass!!! Climbed it yesterday afternoon for the first time as a finish to Schoolroom West - also the first time I had climbed that route as I am a beginning trad leader working my way back up through the grades after climbing almost all sport thus far in my short climbing career. Rock quality is *** for sure on the first half of the pitch then goes to no *'s the last half as you bushwack to the belay tree. You can plug bomber gear just about anywhere in and around the dihedral. I remember using mostly 0.75" size cams with maybe a 0.5", #1 and #2. Didn't have a problem with rope drag at all around the corner and I didn't extend my trad draw there - just kept firing. There are plenty of decent "stances" with solid feet and bomber hand jams to stop and plug gear as long as you know on the first try which size cam to use. I frickin' love the little granite crystals and small dishes that you're standing on that can't be seen from the belay spot. Also, the way that thing looks as you 'round the corner is RAD!!! Don't let it intimidate you - go get it and have fun. Pro is bomber and a fall would be totally clean.

By tenesmus
Sep 9, 2006

Harder than Satan's and easier than the start of Mexican. When it turns vertical and you're jamming the crack with your left foot and smearing the face its like an easy,slabbier version of the S-crack. Pretty cool.

By David Shiembob
From: slc, ut
Apr 27, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

fun fun fun, puts a little meat into the schoolroom for sure. I jammed the whole thing, except for maybe pulling around the corner. Then again I'm a wuss with laybacking, so I probably just made it harder on myself.

By Josh Cameron
Jul 4, 2011

When the roof pushes you out right, look for little nubbins on the face for your feet. They're small, but seem to make it a reasonable 5.8.