This is a long and stellar pitch with two distinct 5.12 cruxes separated by scads of awesome, varied climbing on the unique pocketed limestone of the anti-Phil wall. It climbs through some of the best stone on the wall in a great position. It was bolted, cleaned and sent in a proud one-day effort by Kurt Smith.
This is one route left of Easy Skankin' and shares the same first bolt. It is the second route from the left on the anti-Phil proper and climbs up a tan face through a big roof, then up the grey streak above.
Step off the ramp and climb a devious, sustained sequence up to good holds beneath the roof. Meander your way up the ever-steepening wall above to some very cruxy business at the last two bolts, right where the stone is at its limestone best.
14 draws and a 60-meter rope.
Enjoying the long intricate headwall of Movement o...
Jess Groseth on Movement of Fear, 5.12c.
|By Phil Lauffen|
From: The Bubble
Oct 3, 2013
This is a stellar route with big air potential when you blow it at the crux. Watch for sharp draws... I would usually replace the crux draw with one of my own when I was working the route 'cause I'm a weenie who doesn't want to die.
And I kept my draws because I'm a cheap bastahd.