So I've read The Self-Coached climber and a few other books, and I've found that the exercises I like most (and need to work on most) are movement exercises, like quiet feet, glue hands, always doing a particular type of flag, etc. Of course, the same few exercises sure do get boring.
What I'm wondering is: does anyone have any good movement or technique exercises that aren't included in the standard list that comes up on every blog and in every book? Anything that will help to increase awareness of movement and allow me to continue improving my technique.
In particular, I've found that doing these exercises while leading keeps my head in the right place and keeps fear at bay. So anything that can be done or is best done while leading would be especially useful.
Also, if anyone has some recommendations for books about kinesiology or philosophy of movement (similar to the beginning of chapter 5 in The Self Coached Climber) that would be much appreciated.
kenr
·
Jan 10, 2015
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2010
· Points: 16,608
Two drills I feel like I should be trying:
actively pressing my hips inward toward the wall on as many moves as possible (especially on route sections around vertical).
pushing downward with my fingertips on the lower hold (as my hand is leaving it to reach higher)
Passing the farthest point (SCC) I've always found this one especially hard.
Find the rest: every 5 moves or so try and find a rest position that allows you to shake out comfortably, or even better, go hands free. It's amazing what you can do with high steps on vertical and slab terrain.
Another one I've been doing lately is what I call around the world which is essentially attempting to hit every climbing surface in my gym without coming off of the wall. (go as far as you can by any means necessary) this one is like a practical application for all of the drills above.
Edit: Other ones that can break the monotony: Partner drills -Follow the leader, the laser pointer game
Solo: -Auto Belay Arcing -hot and cold: perform some hard moves on overhanging terrain or on small holds that you can't sustain for a long time then recover on jugs/easier terrain
We use cookies to improve your browsing experience, to show you
personalized content, and for statistical purposes. By continuing
to navigate our website, you accept our use of cookies. Read our
Privacy Policy to learn more.