On the right side of the cave two thirds of the way up Ridge 2 is an obvious, thin crack running up a clean slab. Pull through the right side of the cave to gain the crack. It's cruxy getting established above the roof, but things back off considerably after that. The higher you go, the more the angle kicks back. "Stud" converges under the trees with Mouth from the South on the right and generates a good clean crack on excellent stone.
This is a fine line.
Bring a fistful of wires, a couple of mid-size sliders, some very thin cams, and a rope. Walk off left.
|Comments on Move Like a Stud
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 14, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c
Good route for the area. The 2 stars is relative to the 5 ridges of the West Bank. In Eldo, it would be 1-2 stars.
I think the 10c grade is a prety hard sandbag. The bouldery start is reminiscent of T2 but on smaller holds and thus maybe more powerful (11a?). I campused off of a jam, a pinch and an edge to swing up into a heelhook. Short people may have a heck of a time if they can't campus. Once established above the roof, there are still a few difficult thin fingers moves that deserve the given grade of 10c.
Gear is cams from 0.3 to 3" The top half of the route is relatively easy (5.6?) and takes hand to fist-sized gear. You could run this out and take only gear to 1.5."
The anchor we found up top is newly refurbished and safe to rap on.