This climb is just left of 'South Of The Mouth,' a massive right-trending flake and corner system, perhaps 50m uphill from the bolted routes Slab Left and Slab Right.
The route's is distinguished by the bolts running up through a series of big (and I mean BIG) pockets and incuts up to a crux at mid-height (3rd bolt) where the pockts end in favor of small holds and a sloper rail. There is a large pine tree growing against the cliff just left of this line.
Climb up on surprisingly good holds (5.9?) to set up for the crux, then use steady footwork to get onto the moderate slab. Finish by climbing up and slightly left to the top of Move Like A Stud for an anchor.
This is one fo the few lines at R2 that would get 2 stars in other areas. Its short length is made up for by its unique nature.
4 bolts to a moderate runout to reach the rap station above 'Move Like A Stud .' Take 4 draws plus something to clip in up top.
|Comments on Mouth of the South
|By Tzilla Rapdrilla|
Jul 18, 2008
FA was April 1989, hand drilled. This route probably needs an anchor at the top.