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Mouth of the South
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Routes in Ridge 2
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Arete Funicello S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bladerunner S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dixie Rising T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Dry Heave T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Haul Off and Heave T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Heave Ho T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Krack-a-Toe-ah (submitted as Safecracker) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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LIPSTICK S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mouth of the South T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Move Like a Stud T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Slab Left S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Slab Right S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sleeping Digit T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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South of the Mouth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sportin' a Woodie S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | T. Anderson & R. Wright, 4/89 |
| Page Views: | 687 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Sep 11, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Private Property issues
Details
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Description
This climb is just left of 'South Of The Mouth,' a massive right-trending flake and corner system, perhaps 50m uphill from the bolted routes Slab Left and Slab Right.
The route's is distinguished by the bolts running up through a series of big (and I mean BIG) pockets and incuts up to a crux at mid-height (3rd bolt) where the pockts end in favor of small holds and a sloper rail. There is a large pine tree growing against the cliff just left of this line.
Climb up on surprisingly good holds (5.9?) to set up for the crux, then use steady footwork to get onto the moderate slab. Finish by climbing up and slightly left to the top of Move Like A Stud for an anchor.
This is one fo the few lines at R2 that would get 2 stars in other areas. Its short length is made up for by its unique nature.
The route's is distinguished by the bolts running up through a series of big (and I mean BIG) pockets and incuts up to a crux at mid-height (3rd bolt) where the pockts end in favor of small holds and a sloper rail. There is a large pine tree growing against the cliff just left of this line.
Climb up on surprisingly good holds (5.9?) to set up for the crux, then use steady footwork to get onto the moderate slab. Finish by climbing up and slightly left to the top of Move Like A Stud for an anchor.
This is one fo the few lines at R2 that would get 2 stars in other areas. Its short length is made up for by its unique nature.
Protection
4 bolts to a moderate runout to reach the rap station above 'Move Like A Stud .' Take 4 draws plus something to clip in up top.
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