Mouse's Misery 

the first lead : Jim Erickson , 1966

Mmmmm Mouses... Great classic route. Must get on it.

From the "Climber and Hiker's Guide to Devil's Lake" (1970): "Comparable to other hard climbs at Devil's Lake, this route has mediocre protection. A mutilated bolt, bent and twisted out of shape, provides a graphic reminder to the aspirant of what might befall his body in the event of a fall."

I'd say Mouse's is a candidate for an R rating.

I was hanging out at Two Pines this weekend (albeit briefly because of the 17-19 yr old jagoffs who were there being loud and obnoxious, thanks again pricks), and saw what I would consider to be something nearly as offensive as the teenage tools there.

Some dude spraying mightily about having been on Rubberman recently and how easy it was, even though he and his pals couldn't send it. Then this guy goes up on Mouse's Misery and uses the solution pockets of Mouse Tracks (still didn't look very smooth) and comes down and starts strutting around because in his mind he just hiked 5.10a. Turns out using those solution pockets (and yes they're oh so tempting) makes the route 5.8.

Seems to me if you're good enough to talk smack about one of the hardest routes at the Lake, you should be good enough (not to mention know enough about the place) to not use the 5.8 holds on the 5.10a. Just my opinion...

Felt easier than Congrats. Rating is a little on a soft side. Gear is there. Even the traverse is protectable. What's the definition of R?

Wow Dmitriy, that's a first: a complaint about DL's soft ratings.

Dmitriy-

Any chance you used the solution pockets on the right that are a part of Mouse Tracks, and not "on" for Mouse's Misery?

The first time I climbed this I used the pockets and would have called it an easy 10, after I found out the pockets were frowned upon I did it again thinking that made it a difficult 10a and characteristic of the lake.

In my humble opinion I do not think this climb deserves an R rating. Going into the crux moves you can place good pieces and even during the crux you can place a BOMBER .5 C4. Perhaps the climbing leading up to the crux may seem like it cannot be protected well but there is a place for a decent sized nut and if you sling the old mangled bolt with a nut wire- sounds sketchy, but it would hold. I think this is a great lead.

It *is* a great lead!

On the other hand, Andy, I've heard someone deck from the crux (thankful I didn't have to watch). He thought his gear was great! but there he sat with blood streaming down his lacerated skull.

I often see belayers standing *way* out from the wall here (because its not level right at the base) as if they were belaying a top-rope.

As long as you don't fall, they're all rated "G".

Whether you call it "PG13" or "R" you don't want to fall on this one. Yeah the crux is reasonably well protected, but I wouldn't call it A1, and if you blow it there and the crux gear doesn't hold, you're going to zipper onto a rather ugly landing. Anyway, it's a fun, albeit heady, lead.

Badass lead James! I have just a general question regarding on/off route. I have freakishly long arms, my wingspan is greater than my height, comes in handy. I used the upper solution pocket after the layback in like a crucifix pose, is that off route? For the record the move I'm making in the pic I posted is the only point I touched either of the solution pockets. Either way, badass, fun route. If I was off, gonna be pissed...

Andy, using the solution pocket is "off" if you're doing Mouse's Misery and "on" if you're doing Mouse Tracks. But either way, you're right, this is a fun route. I'd say get back on it and avoid the temptation to use the pocket because the moves in the crack allow for some really great footwork, body positioning and then an exciting exit move into the finger lock.

Well that sucks for me. More incentive I suppose to get back there

I fell on this the first time I tried to lead it. Had a body weight only .3 BD below the roof (though I just found a bomber nut placement there too), a .4 placed from the stance which was ok, then a .5 placed above the finger lock. I fell on the .5, and it held great. Spooky, but I think at least the .5 should be bomber.

I just did this yesterday. Great route and relatively safe with the right gear beta. After the mangled bolt, I placed a bomber #1 C3 in a constriction above the jug, then from the right hand undercling I reached up high and placed a super bomb .4 C4 in the pod. This peace is basically fail safe! Then climbing through the crux and put the not so "bomber" .5 C4 in, as Andy H found out yesterday! Def a good whipski Andy! Luckily the #1 C3 held!

I think this route deserves a PG13 rating, with the right gear the only sketchy runout is from the bolt to the jug. Your still looking at a good whipper off the top but with the .4 its a safe and clean fall.

I'd say the .5 could be bomber if placed a little lower and not in the flaringness where I placed it last time. I fell on it before and it held and so did Tom M. This is a great route with a really great series of crux moves- be confident in your footwork!

I'm super psyched that you mother fuckers are out there leading the hard shit, keep it up!

There is a great Ballnut placement int the groove and moves between the old bolt stud and the the nice sqaure cut jug above. Having that placement puts this climb in the PG-13 realm I believe. It's just a scary lead because you climb above the 2 good bomber pieces to be had just above the sqaure cut jug. I disagree that grabbing the side pull in the solution pocket off to the right makes this climb 5.8 only and especially when leading it. It makes it easier yes... but not 5.8. The climber still has to let go (of that right hand) and pull into the final thin moves for the exit to the jugs above. The climber smears the feet on the rock right of the crack proper as well.. it is just natural movement on the climb.