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A good pitch with lots of variety. This climb requires 2 ropes to get down from.
Not far left of Tofu Crack the wall is light in color and sports a few more lines not in Bloom's Book. The right most of these has a plaque labeled "Mouse Meat 5.10+" which seemed accurate enough. The climb starts vertical and goes to slightly less than vertical in a decent crack system, though it is not the typical Windgate varnished brown patina of the area. Climb 150' to a bolted anchor and rap on 2 ropes. There is a no-hands rest about 40' up that a TR climber can sit in for a "switch" of the belay if you have tied two 70m ropes together to do that.
The next obvious handcrack system left of Tofu Crack but right of the twin cracks of 'Even Ecstacy 5.9+' and the unnamed left-facing flake route. The wall is a tawny blonde here and not the typical Indian Creek brown varnish.
2 ropes plus a variety rack.
It can be protected will with a double or triple set of cams to 3" and a few large nuts. The bottom of the climb is the real crux (1.5"-2" cams) at a bulge and the rock is less solid, and the top is a crux at perhaps .75" cams.
The less straight forward nature of the protection on the bottom of the pitch make it non-ideal for a Indian Creek newbie.
|By Michael Wheat|
Oct 19, 2010
Didn't think this route was PG-13, probably due to the fact that I was able to get quite a few bomber C3 placements in.
Apr 25, 2012
This route can go entirely on passives. Small nuts are way more helpful, IMO. Questionable rock in some spots.
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
May 17, 2012
NOT PG13, Not even PG
|By Devin Fin|
Aug 31, 2012
this thing love's the nut's like a porn star ... get on it an climb a long creek pitch on all passive gear....