Cheri Ermshar pulling the crux overhang on Mouse M...
In words of Knight himself, "Step up into Dirty Ratís Crack and look up and right after about 10í up the crack. Step up to a high clip out of the Dirty Ratís Crack and make the first of two crux moves into the seam above. Work your way left through the maze as you clip two more bolts. Look for the big 'mouse hole' left of the 3rd bolt. ...reach high into big jugs as you move right. Crouch under the roof as you put in a cam. Work your feet up high and step up to place a gold Alien in the horizontal seam above the roof....pull the roof, clip the last bolt and...then chains."
The line climbs above Dead Rat's and left of Crank You, Thank You
This is an awesome climb, thanks for the route! You probably dont remeber but I was the kid who you saw climbing with Kelly at Cracked Wall.
By Ryan Nevius From: The Range of Light May 23, 2011 rating: 5.9-5c17VI16HVS 4c
Fun lead. The entire route from the bottom to the mouse hole to the roof is great. I wish the bolts at the top were below the boulder instead of above/behind it. If you're going to set up a top rope, you are going to need at least a 25' cordelette, some slings to extend your setup, or just sling the boulder itself and forget about using the bolts (a 20' line works great for this). Sure you could just use the bomber bolts with a couple of draws...but I'd rather have my anchor line rubbing against that boulder slightly than my rope on a TR system. Just something to consider.
Placed a red #1 Camalot C4 in the horizontal below the roof, but didn't place another piece after pulling onto the ledge. Just stood up and clipped the bolt, as I felt pretty secure on the ledge.
By John Knight Jun 3, 2011 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a PG13
Re: bolts being behind the boulder on the MM anchor.
I did consider moving them to the front but decided it was safer for people that wanted to set up a TR to have them at the back. Definitely a good point that people need a cordellete or long slings to set up. You definitely don't want your rope rubbing over the boulder. I wouldn't suggest slinging the boulder for a TR. It doesn't appear to be attached to the rest of the rock.
Glad you liked the route.
By Floyd Hayes Oct 13, 2011 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a PG13
The first bolt is a bit high. At 5'10" I had to make a tricky move to reach it, so to be safe I placed a piece in a crack near my feet.
By John Knight Oct 15, 2011 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a PG13
It would be a bummer of a fall if you blew it clipping the first bolt. Best to place a piece at your feet, clip the bolt then clean the piece to reduce rope drag.