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Mous-Ka-Tears 

WI4- PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 215', Grade II
Consensus: WI4- [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 3,453
Submitted By: Ross on Jan 22, 2007

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Doug Shepherd gets pounded by spindrift on pitch o...

Location 

On north side of Mickey Mouse wall in Eldorado Canyon.
N39 55.085 W105 17.022
See this track in google earth:
wikiloc.com/wikiloc/spatialArt...

Notes from JRoberts: Approach is via Rattlesnake Trail to RR tracks.

Description 

Two short ice steps followed by a narrow dihedral tops out at a bulge after 65 meters.

Notes from JRoberts: WI5-, M4. This is the ice climb that forms on the backside of Mickey Mouse Wall above Tunnel #6. Rappel on trees to the right of the climb.

Notes from DougS: Traverse right towards two trees on level with the end of the ice for a 60m rappel to the base, we slung the trees with yellow cord and left a leaver biner (taped closed).

Protection 

At least 7 screws or more if your like. A 70meter rope would be best to do it as one pitch.

Notes from JRoberts: Bring six medium length screws, two Stubbies and some small-medium cams.

Notes from DougS: Did Mous-Ka-Tears today (WI4+?). I would recommend one longer screw (19 cm?) in addition to Jack's suggestions, as there is a nice layer of mank before one of the steep steps.


Photos of Mous-Ka-Tears Slideshow Add Photo
Doug Shepherd on pitch one. 1/21/07
Doug Shepherd on pitch one. 1/21/07
Now you see it....
Now you see it....
.....now you don't.
.....now you don't.
RalphE solos up to fetch the ropes and continue on...
RalphE solos up to fetch the ropes and continue on...
A nice ice route in Eldo.
A nice ice route in Eldo.

Comments on Mous-Ka-Tears Add Comment
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By jack roberts
Jan 22, 2007

Just in case anyone is interested. The ice route on the back side of Mickey Mouse Wall, Mous-Ka-Tears, was climbed today by Eric and I today. It's in really thick shape (for this climb) and may be getting thicker. It comes into the sun at first light and then goes into the shade around 1:30pm. It felt like WI5- with easy mixed to the top. The rack was four 17cm screws and two Stubby screws. A small rack of cams, small to a 2.5 Friend works to protect the upper part of the groove you can see above the second steep curtain. The first two pitches are the crux. Above there the chimney is mainly grovelling in snow but very alpine and fun for 250 feet. We descended by rappelling from the top and down the right side using trees for the four anchors. If you were to rappel the route you would want V-Threads and maybe leave a nut anchor. The approach was via the Rattlesnake trail in Eldo and then along the tracks and through two tunnels. The climb is above Tunnel number six. A nice change from the crowds in Vail. Cheers, Jack Roberts
By Ross
From: Pinewood Springs
Jan 22, 2007

Sorry about this, but I tried to add these key comments to the above text but could not:

Notes from JRoberts:
Mous-Ka-Tears. WI5-, M4. This is the ice climb that forms on the backside of Mickey Mouse Wall above Tunnel #6. Bring six medium length screws, two Stubbies and some small-medium cams. Rappel on trees to the right of the climb. Approach is via Rattlesnake Trail to RR tracks.

Notes from DougS:
Did Mous-Ka-Tears today (WI4+?). I would recommend one longer screw (19 cm?) in addition to Jack's suggestions, as there is a nice layer of mank before one of the steep steps.

The ice is in good condition, although one of the steep steps is a bit hollow and trying to form better. Be nice!

Traverse right towards two trees on level with the end of the ice for a 60m rappel to the base, we slung the trees with yellow cord and left a leaver biner (taped closed).

Very fun, but the new snow made the walk a bit of a chore.

Ross: Thought it was a WI4- M-nothing last Sunday 21JAN07, a 70meter rope would be best to do it as one pitch.